“…an endless banquet” Montreal Food Guide.
$ Inexpensive
$$ Mid-range
$$$ Expensive
Dates in brackets indicate the last time we visited the restaurant in question.
All phone numbers are area code (514) numbers unless otherwise noted.
Abu Elias, 733 Côte-Vertu, 747-7754 (Ville St-Laurent)—A combination Lebanese butcher’s shop, grocery store, and grill that serves up some truly exceptional grilled meat sandwiches. Recommended: filet mignon, kafta (the best we’ve yet encountered in Montreal), and sojouk, a spicy homemade Armenian-Lebanese sausage. Ridiculously cheap, too, with most sandwiches running a mere $2.49-$3.49. Get yours “all-dressed.” $ (2009)
Adonis, 2001 Sauvé W., 382-8606 (Ahuntsic)—Easily the city’s largest Middle Eastern specialty food store, Marché Adonis is also one of the city’s very best specialty food stores of any kind. Their selection is dizzying, their prices are very competitive.
Akhavan, 6170 Sherbrooke W., 485-4744 (NDG)—Nowhere near as big as Adonis, but still impressive, Akhavan is the Iranian/Persian answer to its Lebanese superstore counterpart. We’re particularly fond of Akhavan’s selection of basmati rices, their nuts (very fresh), their dried fruits (everything you’d expect from a top-notch Iranian grocer), and their baked goods, especially their delectable bamyeh, their honey-soaked honey beignets.
Amelio’s, 201 Rue Milton, 845-8396 (Downtown/McGill Ghetto)—I’ve been going here since it was on Lorne and it’s still one of my favorite pizzas in town. It’s very saucy (especially the vegetarian) and very cheesy and it probably wouldn’t pass the standards of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, but it still hits the spot. Recommended: vegetarian (kind of like having a cheese-topped ratatouille on a pizza crust) and the sausage pizza with additional mushrooms. $ (2009)
Un Amour des Thés, 1224 avenue Bernard, 279-2999 (Outremont)—Outremont’s specialty tea, well, specialist. Nice store with a nice selection of teas, teapots, teacups, and other tea-related accessories.
Andes, 4387 St Laurent Blvd., 848-1078 (Plateau)—A Latin American supermercado just north of Marie-Anne which also features a small kitchen for quick meals and take-out. The atmosphere is always festive, the food is simple but fresh. Recommended: pupusas, empanadas. $
l’Anecdote, 801 Rachel E., 526-7967 (Plateau)—Nice ‘50s-style diner which serves good breakfasts and casse-croute fare for lunch and dinner that’s a cut above. Recommended: breakfasts, club sandwich. $ (2006)
Ange & Ricky, 195 Jarry E., 385-6094 (Jarry Park/Villeray)—Part épicerie, part casse-croûte, Ange & Ricky’s simple but honest and delicious Haitian soul food has definitely made it one of our finds of the year. This is no-frills cuisine at its best: amazing stews, like their tassot (a jerked beef number), served with dirty rice and fried plantains in a take-away container to be taken away or eaten on premises. Recommended: tassot, fried chicken (served as a platter or by the piece), homemade lemonade, and spicy Haitian-style cashew pralines. For more thoughts on Ange & Ricky check out this review. $ (2007)
DEFUNCT! Anjou Québec, 1025 Laurier W., 272-4065 (Outremont)—"A little taste of France right here in Montreal" is now closed.
Arlequino, 1218 Drummond, 868-1666 (Downtown)--Arlequino is one of the city's latest serious pizza joints. Not bad, but the downtown location, the over-the-top style, and the deluxe pizzas (lobster, anyone?) make for a strange atmosphere.
Arouch, 917 Rue de Liège W., 270-1092 (Park Extension)—Located in the little-know Little Belgium section of Park Ex, this here’s the Montreal location of an Armenian lahmadjoune operation whose HQ is in Laval. Their flatbreads are very good, especially the one with cheese and roasted red pepper paste, but this is a bright, clean, modern operation—one with all the charm of your local Subway. Our #1 pick for lahmadjoune still tends to be Lahmadjoune Beyrouth-Yerevan, a.k.a. Chez Apo (see below), but if you’re in the neighborhood and you want to try yet another take on Armenian flatbread, Arouch is a good bet. $ (2007)
Arthur Quentin, 3960 St. Denis, 843-7513 (Plateau)—One of the city’s premier gourmet kitchen supply stores, Arthur Quentin also has high-end dinnerware and silverware, as well as home furnishings. A lot of people we know are afraid of this store because they just assume that it’s snobby and that the prices are way out of their range. Actually, the service is very friendly and the prices can be quite reasonable, depending on what you’re looking for (for instance, you can get a lovely Opinel pocket knife for $10-15). Website: HYPERLINK "http://www.arthurquentin.com" http://www.arthurquentin.com.
Atwater Market, 138 Atwater Ave. (Little Burgundy-St.-Henri)—Definitely the most frou-frou of Montreal’s four major municipal markets due in large part to its proximity to Westmount and NDG, which means that the prices are a little higher and the atmosphere is a little less multicultural than Jean-Talon Market. That said, it’s hard the beat the beauty of Atwater’s market hall and its location along the Lachine Canal, and though we favor Jean-Talon, we make a point of going to Atwater Market whenever we’re remotely nearby.
Au Cinquième Péché, 330 Mont-Royal E., 286-0123 (Plateau)—We’ve yet to visit Au Cinquième Péché for dinner, but their lunch special just may be the steal of the century. Check it out. $-$$-$$$ (2007)
Au Petit Extra, 1690 Ontario E., 527-5552 (The Village)— Classic French bistro food and atmosphere at very reasonable prices, with impeccable service. On our last visit we had their crème freneuse (a delicate turnip-based soup), tarte a l’oignon and rillette maison as our two starters, the house steak frites and the canard confit as our mains, and a beautiful tarte au citron as the closer. $$-$$$ (2006)
Au Pied de Cochon, 536 Duluth E., 281-1114 (Plateau East)—As they say here in Montreal, hallucinant. Quite simply our favorite Montreal restaurant of the last few years. Rock solid. See "An Early End to Lent". $$-$$$ (2008)
l’Avenue du Plateau, 922 Mont-Royal E., 523-8780 (Plateau)—Easily one of the best breakfast spots in town, with plates that are huge and elaborate (featuring a generous amount of fresh fruit). Quirky atmosphere; excellent service. Recommended: Eggs Benedict of all stripes, crèpes, pain doré. $-$$ (2006)
Backroom Records & Pastries, 5912 St-Urbain (“Back alley entrance only!”), 495-8046 (Mile End)—The littlest bakeshop in Montreal is also one of the best, especially if you lean towards homespun classics like cherry pie, peach cobbler, chocolate chip cookies, and caramel corn. And you have the added bonus of a fantastic selection of vinyl-pressed recordings to further entice you as you pick out your sweets. $
La Baie des Fromages, 1715 Jean-Talon E., 727-8850 (Little Italy East)—One of the city’s best sources for Italian cheeses, especially Parmesan and Crotonese. Good variety, top-notch quality. They also operate as a full-service Italian delicatessen, with pastas, meats, antipasti, biscotti, etc.
Balila, 685 Côte-Vertu, 747-0011 (Ville St-Laurent)—Right across the street from Abu Elias (see above), Balila looks like any one of a number of shish taouk joints across town, but what sets this place apart is the fact that they serve authentic Lebanese breakfasts. Recommended: fatteh a yogurt, toasted almond, garlic, and chickpea combo, a lovely fava bean foul, and their house hommos Balila. They also make Lebanese style scrambled eggs, with things like sojouk and sumac, but on the day we had those they were a little dry. $ (2007)
Bangkok, 1616 Ste Catherine W., 935-2178 (2nd floor of The Faubourg) (Downtown)—Contrary to the rumor we helped spread (Michelle: “Sorry.”), Bangkok is alive and well and still serving up great Thai prepared to order at fantastic prices. Added bonus: they actually make things really spicy if that’s the way you like ‘em. Recommended: Chicken Tom Yum Soup, Pad Thai, Shrimp with Eggplant, Black Pepper Squid. $ (2008)
La Banquise, 994 Rachel E., 525-2415 (Plateau)—24-hour casse-croute that serves one of the best poutines in town. Late-nights at La Banquise, when the place fills up with revelers and nighthawks of all sorts, can be particularly entertaining and for some reason the poutine always tastes better after midnight. $ (2007)
Barros Luco, 5201 St. Urbain, 270-7369 (Mile End)—Chilean eatery serving up very good empanadas, sandwiches (including their namesake), and other light meals. For a real treat try their completo—a knockwurst-like sausage served in a bun and smothered in tomatoes, avocado, and mayonnaise. Mmm. $ (2009)
Bar Sportivo, 6804 St.-Laurent, 495-0170 (Little Italy)—One of my favorite places to catch an Italian Serie A football match. Great ‘60s interior, a beautiful counter, and some very good lattes. Nice sandwiches, too. $ (2006)
Basilic, 83 de la Gauchetière W., 875–1388 (Chinatown)--Not by any means my favorite Vietnamese restaurant in town, but they do make some pretty great búns. Read a full review here.
Le Bilboquet, 1311 Bernard W., 276-0414 (Outremont)—Ice cream and sorbet so popular the queues stretch down the block all summer long. Unfortunately, they’re no longer under family ownership, their prices continue to escalate at an alarming rate, and we’ve noticed considerable slippage, but it doesn’t seem to have hurt their bottom line.
Bily Kun, 354 Mont-Royal E., (514) 845-5392 (Plateau)—Sister bar to Cheval Blanc (the name means “white horse” in Czech), Bily Kun attracts a crowd that’s somewhat more well-to-do, but the tiled space (rumored to have been an ex-bathhouse) is beautiful, the beer is everything you’d expect from the folks at Cheval Blanc, and the atmosphere can be electric.
Binerie Mont-Royal, 367 Mont-Royal W., 285-9078 (Plateau)—Classic diner that has remained virtually unchanged since the 1930s, but has recently undergone a change in management. We’ll have to give them one more chance—they’ve been around so long, they deserve it—but our first visit post-management-shake-up was highly disappointing. $ (2006)
Bistro Bienville, 4650 Mentana, 509-1269 (Plateau)—This Plateau micro-bistro has quickly become one of our favorite haunts. We love the simplicity of it all and we recommend sitting at the counter, but then we love kitchen antics. Recommended: scallop carpaccio, seared salmon with lardons, steak béarnaise for two, cornish game hen with chanterelles for two. $$-$$$ (2009)
Bistro Chez Roger, 2316 Beaubien E, 593-4200—Take one successful market-fresh micro-bistro (Kitchen Galerie) and combine with an established Rosemont neo-taverne (Chez Roger), mix well, and you get Bistro Chez Roger. Comfort food done right. Recommended: spicy Montreal-style ribs platter; braised beef cheek with heirloom root vegetables; cedar-planked Salmon with warm fennel salad; cheesecake with fraises poivrée. For more thoughts on Bistro Chez Roger, take a look at this.
Bombay Choupati, 5011 Blvd. des Sources (at the corner of Gouin), 421-3130 (Pierrefonds)—This one may seem a bit out of the way, and the drive along Blvd. des Sources isn’t exactly inspiring, but, make no mistake, Bombay Choupati is a “must.” In fact, we can’t emphasize enough just how much of a gem this little South Indian/Madras-style restaurant is. All the South Indian classics are on offer—such as idli (steamed semolina cakes served in a spicy vegetarian sambar, mixed vegetable tikki (spicy potato patties), and, of course, masala dosa (perhaps the quintessential South Indian dish: a lentil-flour crèpe stuffed with a potato curry and accompanied with sambar and coconut chutney—and they’re all among the very best we’ve had anywhere (London, Vancouver, Toronto, Bangalore, wherever). Also recommended, Bombay-style fruit chat and a devastatingly delicious butter chicken, which may very well have raised the bar on butter chicken in this town to new heights. Fantastic, friendly, completely homemade (right down to the yogurt (!), the fiery green chili sauce, and the tamarind sauce, which is made from fresh tamarinds (!) not tamarind pulp), and cheap, too. Top that. $ (2007)
Bombay Mahal, 1001 Jean-Talon W., 273-3331 (Park Extension)—Informal Indian restaurant that serves very good dosas and channa samosas. $ (2006)
Bottega, 65 St-Zotique E., 277-8104 (Little Italy)—After some early highs (see here, for instance), Bottega seemed to run aground for a while: overall, the quality was still outstanding, but the pizzas weren't shining in exactly the same way. Well, based on our most recent experiences, happy days are here again. Bottega's always had the hardware, and now it seems like they're pushing their pizzaioli to more exacting standards. The results--beautifully blistered, perfectly cooked, complex--have been fantastic. $-$$ (2009)
Boucherie du Marché, 7075 Casgrain Ave. (in Jean-Talon Market) (Little Italy)—One of our favorite boucheries/gourmet specialty stores in town. Excellent poultry, sausages, bacon, etc.
Bouchonné, 5171 St-Laurent, 273-8846 (Mile End)--Sadly, La Montée de Lait has packed up and vacated its premises on Villeneuve in order to reinvent themselves as La Montée on Bishop St. Lucky for us (Mile End residents that we are), they opened this tiny, charming comptoir à vin before they left. They've now moved Bouchonné from their original location on Fairmount, to a roomier location just around the corner on St-Laurent, and to celebrate they've expanded their offerings. They still have the great wine selection, with virtually every bottle in stock available by the glass, and they still hold late-night hours, and offer a tantalizing selection of nibbles for those in the mood for a midnight snack (we’re particularly fond of the deviled quail eggs for 75 cents a pop). But now they also offer weekday lunches and weekend brunches. Problem is, we tried one of their Sunday brunches and found it terribly underwhelming (!). Was this a fluke? We sure hope so... $$-$$$ (2009)
Boulangerie/Charcuterie St. Viateur, 102 St.-Viateur W., 272-6548 (Mile End)—They’ve scaled back since the days when they owned the café space next door, but they still make one of the best focaccias in town. Our recommendation? Skip the busier ones and stick to the plain tomato one. It’s nice and garlicky, and their tomato topping is always fresh, even sweet. $
Boulangerie Zaatar, 151de Castelnau E., 274-4775 (Villeray)—Our continuing survey of the city’s lahmatjune (the Armenian version of the Turkish and pan-Arab topped flatbread known as lahmacun) specialists recently turned up this gem. Boulangerie Zaatar may be just a tiny corner bakery with seating for just a few, but they make some truly first-rate Armenian-Lebanese treats, including lahmatjune in at least 8 varieties (including the classic minced beef version with tomatoes and onions, and their signature moitié/moitié with briny Middle Eastern cheese on one side, zaatar on the other), fusées stuffed with spinach and cheese and, our favorite, the one with three different types of cheese and minced sweet and hot peppers, and meat-stuffed cigares. $ (2007)
Brontë, 1800 Sherbrooke St., 934-1801 (Downtown) —This place got a lot of attention when it opened, and with good reason. If you can overlook the fact that the dining room looks like the chill-out room of a nightclub, you will thoroughly enjoy their well-composed menu. Everything we had was excellent. The limoncello-cured salmon is a must. How can you go wrong with braised Kobe beef ribs? The one dessert we tried was not at the same level as the savory dishes, but it was still very good. Their bread (baked on premises) was among the best we’ve encountered in town. Their selection of wines by-the-glass is limited; this is definitely a by-the-bottle place. $$$-$$$$ (2006)
DEFUNCT! La Brunoise, 3807 St André, 523-3885 (Plateau)—See “La Brunoise, the Whole Story” . Unfortunately, the restaurant is no longer. They still have their brasserie, but we’ve never been. Where we have been, however, is Chef Michel Ross's new joint in Verdun, Mas Cuisine (see below), and it's a dandy.
BU, 5245 St. Laurent, 276-0249 (Mile End)—Swish, stylish wine bar in the Mile End neighbourhood (yes, it’s official: the neighborhood’s now 100% certified gentrified) that offers an exceptionally nice selection of wines served in 3 oz. and 4 oz. servings by the glass and by the bottle (naturally) and (surprisingly) rustic Italian food, including a great selection of antipasti, that is rather fantastic. They’re open late, so they tend to attract a younger crowd, not to mention a lot of chefs and kitchen staff from other nearby restaurants who flock for the wine and the food. Added late-night bonus: pizza after 10 pm. For more on BU check out this review . $$-$$$ (2008)
Buvette Chez Simone, 4869 Avenue du Parc, 750-6577 (Mile End)—Well, it sure ain’t the Skala. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Buvette Chez Simone is the latest wine bar to open up in Mile End, and it’s boldly gone where no Mile End wine bar has gone before: that mysterious two-block stretch of Park Ave. between St. Joseph and Mont-Royal, where distinguished tuxedo purveyors like Waxman rub elbows with head shops and other curiosities. When Cocoa Locale opened up on Park a few years ago, I predicted that it marked the beginning of a renaissance for the strip. Well, let’s just say that the renaissance hasn’t exactly been explosive. Buvette Chez Simone indicates that the desire is there, though: this joint has been jumping since the day they opened. And with good reason: the food, with an emphasis on mix-‘n’-match appetizers, is generally very good, and the wine selection is generally interesting and affordably priced. Highlights: squash and rapini risotto, spicy accras de morue, good selection of charcuterie, and roast chicken in quarter, half, or full portions. $$-$$$ (2008)
Byblos, 1499 Laurier E., 523-9396 (Plateau East)—Lovely Persian cuisine served in one of the brightest, warmest dining rooms in the city. Recommended: Fish brochettes, lamb or vegetarian “dizzy,” shish kebab, yogurt with wild garlic shoots, Iranian tea, sorbets and Iranian pastries for dessert, homemade preserves with brunch. $-$$ (2007)
Cabane à sucre Au Pied de Cochon, 11382 rang de la Fresnière, St-Benoît de Mirabel, (450) 258-1732 (Mirabel area)--Just as mental a sugar shack as you would expect from the team that brought you Au Pied de Cochon's world renowned sugar shack chic. $$$ (2009)
Café Olympico, 124 St-Viateur W., 495-0746 (Mile End)—The coffee bar formerly known as Open Da Night (although you can still find die-hards around that continue to call it by that name, or variations upon it), has lost some of its former charm to renovations (they survived a devastating fire), and their prices have crept up steadily over the last few years (their lattes were still just $1.50 a couple of years ago), but they still make one of the best lattes in town and the ambiance can be pure theater at times. $ (2009)
Café Santé Veritas, 480 St-Laurent Blvd., 510-7775 (Old Montreal)—One of the highest rated new-fangled cafés in town. Sometimes I wish people would stop getting our hopes up—we found out the hard way that if you want “coffee art” (we couldn’t care less) and/or an artful espresso (that we care about), you have to visit Café Santé Veritas on weekdays, when the pros are in the house. So far, we haven’t bothered—something about that combination of “serious” espresso bar and lean cuisine really threw us for a loop—but we’re eager to see what all the fuss is about, and optimistic.
Café Union, 148 Jean-Talon W., 273-5555 (Little Italy)—Strangely, given Montreal's affection for coffee, no one has stepped up to start a truly state-of-the-art coffee roasting operation (think Intelligentsia, think 49th Parallel). In the meantime, Café Union continues to be the best source for locally roasted coffee. They should be--they've been at it for 100 years now. Café Union is primarily a coffee roasting house/espresso machine purveyor, but they also serve excellent espressos at their counter. Note: they close early on Saturdays and are closed on Sundays. $ (2009)
Caffè ArtJava, 837 Mont-Royal E., 527-9990 (Plateau)—Heavily hyped, laptop-friendly “coffee art”establishment. Much might be forgiven if the coffee lived up to expectations, but so far we’ve been disappointed. Third time’s the charm?
Caffè Della Posta, 361 Bernard W., 495-8258 (Outremont)—Six months ago we were rather impressed by this Sicilian trattoria. A couple of weeks ago, though, we had this to say. $ (2007)
Caffè in Gamba, 5263 Park Ave., 656-6852 (Mile End)—Coffee snobs will love the selection of artisanally roasted beans from across North America, and, depending on who’s working the espresso machine, you can get an awfully fine espresso here, but what’s with the strange ambiance and the Gladiator fetish?
Caffè Italia, 6840 St.-Laurent, 495-0059 (Little Italy)—Definitely one of the best espressos in town and some real Old World charm—right down to the Proraso Italian shaving products they stock behind the counter. Excellent sandwiches, too. $ (2008)
Camellia Sinensis, 351 Emery, 286-4002 (Quartier Latin)—The best teahouse and teashop in town, bar none. The fine people at Camellia Sinensis (the scientific name for tea) have been directly sourcing and importing the world’s very finest teas and serving them with loving care out of this tiny storefront on Emery since 1998. They specialize in the four most important traditions in tea—Chinese, Japanese, Taiwanese, and Indian—but they also carry tisanes and some blends and they happen to make the best Moroccan mint tea you’re likely to find here or anywhere.
Le Canard Libéré, 4396 St-Laurent Blvd., 286-1286 (Plateau)—This espace gourmande is the Montreal branch of Canards Lac Brome, the popular and successful free-range duck farm located in the Eastern Townships (since 1912!). You can buy light meals to eat in or take away, and they have a huge array of processed duck convenience foods (sausages, patties, etc.), but for those of us who actually enjoy cooking the real attractions here are their fresh ducks, fresh duck parts, fresh duck livers, etc. The breed in question is a Peking duck, and though we haven’t had a chance to visit their Knowlton location to verify this, we were assured that the ducks lead stress-free lives.
Cao Thang, 1082 St-Laurent Blvd., 392-0097 (Chinatown)—This was our favorite spot for banh mi—Vietnamese submarine sandwiches. Just check out what we had to say back in 2005 . As of March 2007, though, things are not so hot at Cao Thang. They may be under new management—it’s not clear. What is clear is that their banh mi are not what they used to be. The special sauce is non-apparent, the “spicy” ain’t all that spicy, the carrots aren’t marinated now, and the Japanese mayonnaise is not in effect. It’s hard to describe just how sad this makes us. $ (2007)
Caraïbe Delite, 4816 Park Ave., 274-4509 (Mile End)—This Guayanese restaurant has a reputation for being a carbon copy of Le Jardin du Cari (see below) and with good reason. There’s some kind of family connection between the two businesses and there’s a lot of overlap in terms of menu, atmosphere, and approach to cuisine, but Cuisine Caraïbe Delite offers a number of dishes that its forerunner on St-Viateur doesn’t. Order the tropical fish roti, for instance, and you’ll get a hearty curried fish stew (made with “Gilbaka,” a fish native to Guyana that CCD gets from Toronto) with your hot, fresh roti served on the side. We know people who are absolutely addicted to the tropical fish roti and we can understand why. $ (2007)
La Carreta, 350 St.-Zotique E., 278-5779 (Little Italy)—One of the most inviting Salvadoran restaurants in town. Good food, generous portions, friendly service, and a few vegetarian options, too. $-$$ (2009)
La Caverne, 5184A Côte-des-Neiges, 738-6555 (Côte-des-Neiges/U. de. M.)—Crazy Russian restaurant located in an odd, (you guessed it!) cavern-like basement location. Excellent Russian dumplings of all kinds, including lovely fruit ones like sour cherry for dessert. $-$$ (2009)
Chao Phraya, 50 Laurier Ave., 272-5339 (Plateau/Mile End)—We really haven’t been fair to Chao Phraya. Years ago, when I was still a vegetarian, I went to Chao Phraya a couple of times and found the veggie options limited and kind of boring. And that was it. Even though we’d long stopped being vegetarian, and even though friends of ours continued to swear by Chao Phraya, we never really gave them another shot. Maybe it was because it’s so close. When you live this close to a restaurant, it’s not really “going out” is it? In any case, we’ve finally gone back to Chao Phraya and not only do they now have a greatly expanded vegetarian menu, we’ve discovered that their meat and seafood dishes can be very good, even excellent, especially their shrimp dishes. Not quite the homestyle Thai restaurant we’re desperately in search of, but… $$ (2007)
Charcuterie Hongroise, 3843 St Laurent Blvd., 844-6734 (Plateau)—Top-notch Hungarian sausages, smoked or otherwise, are the specialty here. Recommended: spicy Hungarian sausage with sauerkraut and spicy mustard served hot on a Portuguese bun. $ (2009)
Cheskie, 359 Bernard W., 271-2253 (Mile End)—Outstanding Kosher bakery. Recommended: challah bread, spicy onion buns, and the best potato knishes in the city.
Cheval Blanc, 809 Ontario E., (514) 522-0211 (Quartier Latin/Village)—After all these years, still one of Montreal’s very best brewpubs. I’ve been going for just about 20 years now and I still love their décor and their great house blanche.
DEFUNCT!Les Chèvres/Le Chou, 1201 Van Horne W., 270-1119 (Outremont)—You’ll notice many, many references to Les Chèvres/Le Chou if you look through the archives of “…an endless banquet” because in addition to having been one of the city’s top-rated restaurants for the better part of 5 years, Michelle also worked there. As of January 2007, however, Les Chèvres/Le Chou are no more. (2007)
Chez Doval, 150, Marie-Anne E., 843-3390 (Plateau)—Yet another classic Portuguese restaurant and eatery featuring a wickedly good array of grilled dishes. Highlights include grilled calmari that just might be the very best in town and grilled fish specials like a whole striped bass for $14.95. No-nonsense atmosphere, good prices, excellent food. $-$$ (2009)
Chez José, 173 Duluth E., 845-8693 (Plateau)—Quintessentially funky Duluth café, specializing in empanadas, soups (including a tasty seafood stew and an outstanding gazpacho), coffee, and desserts. Recommended: all of the above, plus their smoothies and their homemade chipotle-laced hot sauce. $ (2008)
Chez Louis, 222 Place du Marché-du-Nord, 277-4670—One of the city’s very finest greengrocers, Chez Louis is not only a treasure trove, it’s also an education. You really never know what kind of exotic fruits and vegetables (including a phenomenal selection of fungi) you might find.
Chez Nino, 192 Place-du-Marché-du-Nord, 277-8902—Right next door to Chez Louis, on the south edge of Jean-Talon Market, Chez Nino is another top-notch greengrocer. Together, they make for a stunning 1-2 combination punch.
Chez Nouri, 10 Ave. de Pins W., 823-9441—Certainly the quirkiest of the restos to get the nod in Gourmet’s March issue on Montreal, Chez Nouri amounts to no more than a tiny counter tucked away in one of the strange, decrepit office buildings typical of that part of the Main (one of the ones that hasn’t been given a trendy facelift in recent years). There you’ll find a small assortment of ostensibly Iranian dishes, including a falafel-like chickpea patty sandwich that may very well be the best non-falafel falafel sandwich in a city otherwise overrun by abysmal falafel. (2006)
Chez Vito, 5180 Rue Saint-Urbain, 277-1981—Our local butcher and one of the finest (and friendliest) Italian butchers in town. Not only do they offer the very best in meat at an honest price, but if you ask nicely they might even let you buy a bottle of their house reserve olive oil, direct from some relative of theirs back in the mother country. Now that’s amore.
La Chilenita, 64 Marie-Anne W., 982-9212, and 152 Napoleon E., 286-6075 (Plateau)—The city’s Chilean empanada specialist. Recommended: empanadas, burritos, Chilean-style sandwiches, and their homemade salsa. $ (2007)
Les Chocolats de Chloé, 546 Duluth E., 849-5550 (Plateau)—Beautiful handcrafted chocolates by the star of the Montreal chocolate scene, now in fancy new digs on Duluth, and now with an expanded line of chocolates and, just in time for the summer of 2009, truly awesome ice cream sandwiches (!).
La Chronique, 99 Laurier W., 271-3095 (Mile End/Outremont)—Although it’s one of the city’s most celebrated and most expensive restaurants, it’s got a small, cozy, and understated dining room with a relaxed feel to it and chef Marc de Canck now offers a $25 prix fixe lunch menu that offers a great opportunity to experience his revered cuisine on a budget. Highlights: quite possibly the best steak tartare in the city; fantastic soupe au poisson; succulent braised beef cheeks. $$-$$$$ (2007)
Chu Chai and Chuch, 4088 St. Denis, 843-4194 (Plateau)—Montreal is not exactly a Mecca when it comes to vegetarian restaurants of any stripe, especially Asian ones. It’s no Vancouver, it’s no New York, it’s no Toronto in that department. Chu Chai has been the premium Asian (in this case, Thai) vegetarian restaurant in Montreal for some time. Chuch is their informal café/take-out operation next door. My tolerance for these places has really waned over the years--the most recent meal I had there was passable at best. $-$$ (2009)
Club Chasse et Pêche, 423 rue St. Claude, 861-1112 (Old Montreal) —One of the hottest new restaurants of the last year, Club Chasse et Pêche is a fine dining establishment with prices to match, but if you go there for lunch you’ll find what amounts to a great deal, considering the caliber of the cuisine. On most days, you can get an entrée and a main for lunch for under $20. Not bad for a swish Old Montreal location and an ambience (dark and richly appointed) that makes you feel you ought to be puffing on a huge cigar and sipping cognac. The real attraction though is the cuisine. On a recent visit everything—from the pan-seared scallops, to the gnocchi with white truffle (quite a bit extra, but worth every penny), to the roast duck with linguini—was fantastic. The sole exception? Our dessert, which was rather disappointing (apparently the dessert menu at night is excellent though). $$-$$$ (2005)
Club Social, 180 St-Viateur W., 495-0114 (Mile End)—One of the better coffee houses in town and an excellent place to catch World Cup and European Cup soccer action, plus their lattes still only set you back $1.50. Pretty much impossible to beat. No wonder so many people have decamped from Open Da Night over the years.
Cluny, 257 Prince St., 866-1213 (Old Montreal)—From the people who brought us Titanic (which has long been one of our favorite lunch spots) comes the slightly more sophisticated Cluny (read: they’re open for dinner and they have a license). Located in the historic Darling Foundry, Cluny has some of the most beautiful post-industrial surroundings you’re going to find in Montreal, or anywhere else, for that matter. Meals include everything from panini to hot mains always of the nouveau comfort food variety, and it’s all very good. For more on Cluny, looky here. $-$$ (2007)
Coco Rico, 3907 St Laurent Blvd., 849-5550 (Plateau)—Reliably tasty Portuguese rotisserie. Recommended: all things chicken, pasteis de nata, corn bread. $ (2008)
Le Coin du Mexique, 2489 Jean-Talon E., 374-7448 (Rosemont)—Fresh, hearty and very authentic Mexican fare. See “Enfin! Notre Coin Mexicain!” $ (2006)
Coralli, 8955 Meilleur St., 381-5623 (Ahuntsic)—Quite possibly the best fish market in Montreal, Coralli is certainly the best we’ve found in the wholesale/retail category. Great selection, superior quality, excellent prices. Their deals on lobster and oysters in particular are unbeatable. Well worth the trip. (2007)
La Cornetteria, 6528 St-Laurent, (514) 277-8030 (Little Italy)—Primarily a wholesale operation that’s supplied some of the city’s better cafés with their fresh cornetti and other Italian sweets, La Cornetteria is in the process of making the retail side of their business a little more inviting. This is good news for pastry lovers and good news for a block of St-Laurent that’s otherwise a little moribund. Recommended: namesake cornetti and what may be the city’s best zeppole di San Giuseppe (Saturdays during Lent only) because they’re deep-fried, they’re stuffed with a truly fantastic whipped ricotta filling, they have a touch of lemon to them, and somehow, miraculously, they’re light. San Giuseppe, I’m sure, is smiling. (2008)
Cosmo, 5843 Sherbrooke W., 486-3814 (NDG)—In our estimation, the classic Montreal greasy spoon, which means it’s the one we’re most excited to run out to every time we rent a car. See “Two Montreal Classics in Two Days, Pt. 1: Cosmo's”. Highlights include the Mish-Mash, an ungodly combination of eggs, potatoes, and charcuterie of all sorts that’s become a Montreal institution, and the Creation, which is most definitely the very best breakfast sandwich in town (there’s not much competition in this department, but with eggs, bacon, fried bologna, lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise combined into one package, the Creation is a keeper). $ (2007)
Côte St-Luc BBQ, 5403 Côte St-Luc Blvd. W., 488-4011—Another one of the city’s classic rotisserie chicken establishments, along with Rotisserie Laurier, Rotisserie Portugalia, Romados, and the like. Whereas Rotisserie Laurier’s sauce barbecue (more of a gravy than anything someone from Texas, Tennessee, or the Carolinas would recognize as barbecue sauce) has a cinnamon finish to it, Côte St-Luc BBQ’s sauce has a clove finish, and like its Outremont counterpart, its birds are juicy and flavorful, with wonderfully crispy skins. What’s more, their fries are very good and their prices are excellent. In fact, their lunch specials have got to be one of Montreal’s best lunch deals. $ (2007)
Couscous Kamela, 1227 Marie-Anne E., 526-0881 (Plateau)—Couscous Kamela probably does more trade in delivered pizzas than anything else, but go there and you’ll find a homey little neighborhood specializing in Algerian classics like couscous plates and bricks, those lovely, flaky pies stuffed with meats and vegetables of all sorts that are native to Algeria and Tunisia. $ (2007)
Daou, 519 Faillon E., 276-8310 (Villeray)—This Lebanese restaurant is one of the city’s oldest—it was opened in 1975—and, 30+ years later, it remains one of the city’s best. Grilled meats and seafood are a specialty, but what really impressed us was Daou’s vast selection of hot and cold mezze -style appetizers, especially a few somewhat harder to find items like hommos snoubar (with pine nuts) and muhamara (a red pepper and walnut dip), and their expert kebe. $$ (2006)
La Dépense, 7070 Henri-Julien, 273-1118, Jean-Talon Market (Little Italy)—The De Vienne family continues to branch out. First there was Philippe de Vienne’s catering operation, then there was Olive et Épices, the Jean-Talon Market shop that carries the full line of De Vienne’s phenomenal line of épices cru, and now there’s La Dépense. Here you can find all the specialty food items, condiments, and accessories you need to complement your épices cru-inspired adventures in international cuisine.
Dic Ann’s, 10910 Pie IX, (Montreal North)—An institution. A legend even. No one makes a burger like they do. Featuring an ultra-flat patty that’s adorned only with their secret sauce, they haven’t changed much since the ‘50s. Neither have their prices. It doesn't get much more old-school than this and we wouldn't have it any other way. $ (2009)
DNA, 355 Marguerite d’Youville, 287-3362 (Old Montreal)--Michelle's favorite Montreal restaurant of the last year is a funny one: it's got an interior that's more South Beach than Old Port, with music and clientele to match, but their kitchen is undeniably one of the city's best, and the food is surprisingly (refreshingly) earthy. You can read an account of our first adventure at DNA here, but since then chef Derek Dammann has been pushing things further and further. The last time we went we sampled both veal heart tartare and a duck livers/duck hearts/duck testicles (I kid you not) risotto--more importantly, both were absolutely delectable. $$-$$$ (2009)
Dong-Que, 1210 Rosemont Blvd., 490-0770 (Rosemont)—Tasty Vietnamese food of the phô (noodle soup) and bun (vermicelli noodle dishes) variety. See “Three Recent Mini-Reviews” . $ (2006)
Duc de Lorraine, 5002 Côte-des-Neiges, 731-4128 (Côte des Neiges/Université de Montréal)—This is one of our favorite confiseries/patisseries/boulangeries in town, and some claim it’s home to the best croissant in the city. Their pastries are excellent, they have a very nice charcuterie counter, and their salon de thé can be a lovely place to relax with a sweet treat and a cup of tea. We’ve been known to hike up from Mile End for just this very pleasure. $
l’Entrecote St.-Jean, 2022 Peel, 281-6492 (Downtown)—The perfect place to go when you just don’t want to be faced with a big decision. The only decision here is, “Do I get the soup and the profiteroles, or not?” The only other things on the menu are their steaks frites and their house salad. $$ (2008)
Euro-Deli Batory, 115 St Viateur W., 948-2161 (Mile End)—If I'm totally honest, and calculate this according to the following formula NUMBER OF VISITS x AMOUNT OF PLEASURE PER VISIT, Euro-Deli Batory is my favorite restaurant in the entire city. No other restaurant even comes close. I told someone behind the counter this one time and he blushed and ran back into the kitchen. Recommended: potato-cheese perogies, kielbasa, bigos, Ukrainian borscht, spring borscht (in the spring and summer). $ (2009)
Fairmount Bagel, 74 Fairmount W., 272-0667 (Mile End)—We’re lucky enough to live within a 10-minute walk of three 24-hour bagel shops. All three of them are good, but Fairmount is easily our favorite. They might have all kinds of novelty bagels (I once watched, aghast, as a woman in front of me ordered a cream cheese and lox sandwich to go, on a flax bagel), but their “whites” (sesame) and “blacks” (poppy) are the best in town. See “Bagel Fantasy”.
Farhat, 5595 A-B Côte des Neiges, 739-4045 (store), 738-4999 (restaurant) (Côte des Neiges)—Consisting of a halal butcher shop and grocery store upstairs and a restaurant downstairs, Farhat is a full-service establishment. Farhat’s downstairs grill is one of the city’s better purveyors of Lebanese-style grilled meat sandwiches, including kafta, filet mignon, lamb, chicken, and sausage, and they’re open late. $
Le Figaro, 5200 Hutchison, 278-6567 (Outremont)—The food is okay, but the real attraction here is the charming atmosphere, not to mention perhaps the nicest street-side terrace in the city. There’s no better place to have a Pernod on a hot, lazy summer evening. $-$$ (2007)
Le Fouvrac, 1451 Laurier E., 522-9993 (Plateau East)—It’s cursed with a silly name, but this is one of our favorite gourmet specialty stores in the city.
Fromagerie Hamel, 220 Jean-Talon E., 272-1161 (Little Italy)—One of the best selections of cheese in the city, including an excellent selection of artisanal cheeses from Quebec and lait cru cheeses from Quebec, France, and elsewhere.
Le Fromentier, 1375 Laurier E., 527-3327 (Plateau East)—The finest artisanal bakery in town, plus an excellent cheese shop (Le Maitre Corbeau) and an excellent artisanal sausage-maker (La Queue de Cochon), all under the same roof. Our favorites? Le Berlinois (with walnuts, caraway, and cumin—Wednesdays only), La Revolution noire (dark chocolate, cocoa, and cranberries—Saturdays only), their baguettes, all of their savory pasties, turnovers, quiches, and pizzas, and all of their Viennoiseries. Note: only open Tuesday through Sunday.
Fu Kam Wah, 1180 Décarie, 337-2262 (Ville St-Laurent)—This local Ville St-Laurent favorite might not look like much from the outside, but step inside and convince the owners/wait staff that you’re deserving of/adventurous enough for their off-menu specials and you’ll be treated to Hunan and Cantonese specialties like beef with bitter melon, oven-roasted razor clams, steamed salty chicken with pickled jellyfish, and maybe even some clay-pot duck. $$. (2007)
Garde Manger, 408 Saint François Xavier, 678-5044 (Old Montreal)—Talk about a Jekyll & Hyde story. Here's what we had to say about GM then: "Boisterous atmosphere and excellent eats at this new-ish and much-needed Old Montreal hot spot. Highlights included a truly fantastic steak frites, fish ‘n’ chips-style fried calamari that were among the best we’d ever had, a delectable wild mushroom sauté, and a wickedly good homemade pecan pie (literally: it was made by the chef’s mom). Remember, if it’s too loud, you’re too old. That said, on the night we went there, Garde Manger had a great mix of people and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves, especially the girls behind us who were snapping away wildly with their digital camera." One month later, we went back and got burned. Some of the reasons for this were mundane (suddenly inflated prices, lackluster food, poor service), but topping the list of missteps was an attempt to pass off a supermarket pecan pie as the homemade pecan pie raved about above (and which we’d made a point of ordering in advance for a special occasion). What can you say about a place where one night you might get a pecan pie lovingly made by the chef's mom, the next night you get a pie lovingly made by Loblaw's ? And I'd written such a glowing review about them for the Mirror just weeks earlier, too. $$-$$$ (2006)
Gibeau Orange Julep, 7700 Décarie, 738-7486 (Décarie)—That big orange globe has been a Montreal landmark since the 1940s and their secret orange julep formula lives up to the hype. See Never Mind the Biosphere, Here’s the Gibeau Orange Julep! for more on this roadside classic. $ (2007)
NEW! Le Gourmet Burger, 1433-B Bishop, 435-3535 (Downtown)--Finally, a new-fangled burger worthy of adulation. LGB's basic burger is a big, beefy, tasty, freshly ground number that costs a mere $5 and comes with tomato, lettuce, and a lovely sesame seed bun. Most of the deluxe fixings (a variety of cheeses, mushrooms, bacon, cole slaw, guacamole, etc.) will set you back $1 each, while superdeluxe fixings (foie gras, say) will set you back anywhere from $2-5. Michelle's favorite so far is a $7 bacon & fried egg burger. Good fries, too--both potato and tempura-style sweet potato. And a nice selection of soda fountain favorites, like Boylan Root Beer. $ (2009)
Gourmet Laurier, 1042 Laurier W., 274-5601 (Outremont)—Our local gourmet specialty store, and probably our favorite in the whole city. Excellent selection, good service, fair prices. This is where we most frequently get our tea, coffee, preserves, crackers, chocolate, and a whole host of other treats.
Graziella, 116 McGill St., 876-0116 (Old Montreal)—Graziella Batista's upscale Old Montreal ristorante can be pricey, but her lightness of touch with everything from her pasta to her sausages instantly won us over. One of our favorite restaurants of the year. Curious? Try the lunch special. $$-$$$ (2008)
Halal 786, 768 Jean-Talon W., 270-0786 (Park Extension)--Quality Pakistani fare. See “Halal 786”. Recommended: Lahori Chargha, Lahori Fry Fish, channa masala, karsoon sag, dal mash. $ (2006)
Havre aux Glaces, 7070 Henri Julien, 278-8696 (Little Italy)—This artisanal ice cream shop at Jean-Talon Market is easily the city’s best. We’re especially fond of their sorbets and right now it’s their citrus flavors that are killing us.
Holder, 407 rue McGill, 849-0333 (Old Montreal)—A large brasserie bringing warmth to a sometimes eerily deserted part of town. Holder has an extensive wine list, a massive bar, which I’m happy to report serves Pimm’s (!—the first I’ve seen in Montreal), and an inviting menu. Sit yourself down, indulge in a cocktail, and have yourself some French comfort food made right. $$ (2006)
Hwang Kum, 5908 Sherbrooke W., 487-1712 (NDG)—[Insert appropriate Wang Chung-related joke here.] Hwang Kum is presently our undisputed champ among Montreal Korean restaurants. On a recent visit (02/2007) there wasn’t a single dish that disappointed—from the bulgogi to the cold noodles with mixed vegetables to the bbq beef ribs to the seafood pancake to the bbq chicken to the sizzling bibimbap to the spicy cod soup—but those first four were especially excellent. Great Korean condiments, too, and bonus points for serving the kimchi with a pair of scissors. Very good, very affordable. $-$$ (2008)
Jano, 3883 St Laurent Blvd., 849-0646 (Plateau)—Rock-solid Portuguese restaurant specializing in grilled meat, poultry, and seafood. $$ (2007)
Le Jardin du Cari, 21 St Viateur W., 495-0565 (Mile End)—Guayanese-Trinidadian curry house that is famous for its rotis and its homemade scotch bonnet pepper hot sauce. Recommended: Potato-Chickpea Roti with Pumpkin, fried plantains, potato croquettes, dal soup. $ (2009)
Jean-Talon Market, 7075 Casgrain Ave. (Little Italy)—Our very favorite market in Montreal and it just keeps getting better and better. In fact, it’s so good, it’s been known to make out-of-towners cry.
Joe Beef, 2491 rue Notre-Dame W., 935-6504 (Little Burgundy)—Joe Beef has a certain magic to it that’s only getting better with age. The franchise now includes Liverpool House and McKiernan (all three on the same stretch of Notre-Dame), but the flagship is still the first place to go if you’ve yet to have the pleasure. A recent visit included an absolutely mind-blowing os à la moelle that looked as though it had come off a brontosaurus. If there’s a better version of this French classic in Montreal, we’ve yet to encounter it. Be forewarned: portions are huge, so don’t be afraid to order strategically. We’ve found that our ideal combo is one main and two appetizers for the two of us. Sadly, John Bil, the champion oysterman, is no longer part of the Joe Beef team, but oysters and seafood (like their signature lobster spaghetti dish) still feature prominently. $$-$$$ (2008)
Jun-I, 156 Laurier W., 276-5864 (Mile End)—Definitely the best sushi in town, no question about it. Stick to the sushi/sashimi offerings, since they’re chef/owner Junichi Ikematsu’s forte. Pleasant surprises include fresh shiso leaves, yuzu/miso sauce, and rice krispies, but the real highlight is the most amazingly fresh fish you’ve ever tasted (not to mention a number of varieties we’ve never seen anywhere else in Montreal). Musts include the sashimi sampler, the spicy scallop rolls, and the absolutely to-die-for BBQ eel dynamite roll (which just might be the very best piece of sushi either of us has ever tasted). Top honors. $$-$$$ (2008)
Kitchen Galerie, 60 Jean-Talon E., 315-8994 (Little Italy)—The freshest restaurant concept we’ve encountered here in Montreal in quite some time, and not just because Kitchen Galerie happens to be about 50 ft. from Jean-Talon Market. Want more details? You can find a proper review here. Recommended: foie gras à la lave-vaiselle with muscat jelly, seared tuna with lardons, roasted salsify, a poached egg, and sauce bourguignonne, lobster-stuffed ravioli with asparagus. (2008)
Lahmadjoune Beyrouth-Yerevan (a.k.a. Chez Apo), 420 Faillon, 270-1076 (Villeray)—The Villeray district is blessed in a number of different ways, but certainly one of its greatest blessings is that it’s home to some of the city’s best lahmadjoune bakeries, and Lahmadjoune Beyrouth-Yerevan—whose name is a reflection of their Lebanese-Armenian approach to baked goods—may very well be the granddaddy of ‘em all. Two things separate Lahmadjoune Beyrouth-Yerevan: their delicate, absolutely delicious dough, and the fact that they cook their flatbreads and savory pastries in a wood-burning oven. Recommended: their classic lahmadjoune with its flavorful ground beef topping; their spinach pies and flatbreads. $ (2009)
Laloux, 250 avenue des Pins E., 287-9127 (Plateau)—I can hardly be accused of being 100% objective on this one, seeing as Michelle is now the head pastry chef at Laloux. All I can say is that they've had an excellent équipe for two years now, during which time I've had some phenomenal meals there, and now, as of May 2009, their team includes the talents of Éric Gonzalez, James MacGuire, and, yes, Michelle. $$-$$$ (2009)
Leméac, 1045 Laurier W., 270-0999 (Outremont)—Posh, stylish Outremont restaurant that offers a wonderful weekend brunch, as well as a phenomenal (and remarkable) $20 after-10 P.M. menu (entrée + main). Recommended: blini with poached eggs, smoked salmon (smoked on premises), Hollandaise sauce, and caviar; salmon pot-au-feu; hanger steak and frites. $$-$$$ (2007)
Lezvos West, 4235 Décarie, 484-0400 (NDG)—The ambience is a bit stiffer and more formal than the original on Mont-Royal (which was our favorite Greek restaurant in Montreal for years), but the service is still very friendly and all that really matters is that the food is the same quality we came to expect at their flagship restaurant. Recommended: saganaki, grilled octopus salad, grilled whole fish, grilled jumbo prawns, and lots of lots of gigantes. $$-$$$ (2006)
Liverpool House, 2501 Notre-Dame W., 313-6049 (Little Burgundy)—The latest from the dynamic duo who brought you Joe Beef is another friendly, thoroughly unpretentious, and tastefully appointed gem just two doors down the road. As in the case of its predecessor, Liverpool House’s name alludes to a once-famous but now-forgotten Montreal grog house, and once again the atmosphere is built on good cheer and generous portions. This time around, though, the cuisine is often Italian and Italian-inspired, and on a recent visit we encountered two total knockouts: a stellar, remarkably airy Parmesan pudding topped with sautéed asparagus and a single broiled egg; and a giant, perfectly braised veal, beef, and pork meatball that came with fusilli, a simple tomato sauce, and a hunk of bufala mozzarella. Just how giant are we talking about? It was as big as a small cannonball, not quite as big as a bowling ball, but, like all great meatballs, it was at once hearty and remarkably light (taking into account its composition and its girth). $$-$$$ (2007)
M sur Masson, 2876 Masson, 678-2999 (Rosemont)—This tiny bistro in the heart of the Promenade Masson is yet another new restaurant that has tapped into the city’s history—in this case, Rosemont’s early- to mid-20th century heyday—to successfully create an atmosphere that’s in tune with both the old world and the new (Joe Beef would be the other obvious example). Excellent bistro fare at reasonable prices; very reasonable if you take advantage of their lunch and brunch menus. Highlights: a true French omelet cooked the way it should; top-notch Eggs Benedict served in increments of one ($6) or two ($10); salade Niçoise with pan-seared tuna. For more thoughts on M sur Masson check out this review. $$ (2006)
Madre, 2931 Masson, 315-7932 (Rosemont) — Just a block up the street from M sur Masson is this latest restaurant from Raza’s owner and chef Mario Navarrete Jr. The table d’hote is the best deal at 3 services for $35. See this review. $$-$$$ (2007)
Maiko Sushi, 387 Bernard W., 490-1225 (Mile End)—Cut-rate, informal sushi spots have been mushrooming all over Montreal over the last few years, but this is still a city where sushi tends to be upscale. Maiko is a case in point. It has a kind of garish, ‘80s aesthetic and the sushi is priced to match. Not the most exhilarating sushi in the world, but at least it’s dependable. $$-$$$ (2006)
The Main, 3864 Boul. St-Laurent, 843-8126 (Plateau)—Schwartz’s will always be my #1 go-to spot for smoked meat, but The Main makes for a mean #2. Their smoked meat may not have the spicy complexity or the juiciness of Schwartz’s, but it still packs a wallop. They’re one of only a few places in the city where you can get varenyky. They’ve got that great ‘60s-‘70s style that reminds me of Dunn’s heyday when they were still at the corner of McGill College and Ste-Catherine. And they’re open till at least 3 or 4 a.m. every night, which means that sometime after the witching hour of every night they become the city’s hands-down, #1 smoked meat champion for a few hours. $-$$ (2007)
Maison du Roti, 1969 Mont-Royal E., 521-2448 (Plateau East)—La Maison du Roti is a full-service épicerie/charcuterie that includes a cheese counter, a bread counter, and a coffee counter, along with a prepared foods counter and what might very well be the best butcher counter in the city. These guys are professionals and everything they offer is top-quality. Their selection of beef is simply breathtaking.
La Maison Kam Fung, 1071 & 1111 Saint-Urbain, 2nd floor, 878-2888 (Chinatown)—While Kam Fung isn’t about to dethrone San Francisco’s Ton Kiang as our #1 dim sum establishment, it’s the best that we’ve yet encountered in Montreal. Full cart service on weekends. $-$$ (2007)
Maisonneuve Market, 4375 Ontario E. (Hochelaga-Maisonneuve)—Not nearly as extensive or impressive as either Atwater or Jean-Talon, but still worth a visit if you haven’t been. Among other things, the market hall’s another beaut.
Malhi Sweets, 880 Jarry W., 273-0407 (Park Extension)—Easily our favorite Indian restaurant in town. I mean, if it’s good enough for Catherine Deneuve it’s good enough for us. Recommended: pakoras, channa samosa, lentil soup, malai kofta, vegetable korma, dal makhni, channa, baigan bharta, garlic nan. Fantastic. That said, we’ve never been fond of their saag, even though it’s apparently one of their most popular dishes, but that’s the only misstep we’ve ever encountered there. $ (2007)
NEW! Mamie Clafoutis, 1291 Van Horne, 750-7245 (Outremont)--Mamie Clafoutis isn't exactly "new," but it's new to this list. MC has a full selection of pastries, breads, and desserts, including fruit clafoutis, but their real strength is in the Viennoiseries Dept. We recommend their chaussons aux pommes and their pains aux raisins. (2009)
Mammmm Bolduc, 4351 de Lorimier, 527-3884 (Plateau East)—MB used to be one of our very favorite places for a classic Québécois déj. As of March 2007, we’re not so sure anymore. The classic diner-style potatoes have been replaced with potatoes smothered in sauce BBQ spice mix, and where you used to get an excellent baguette that was griddle-toasted, you now get an anemic Provigo-style panini that’s been poorly toasted. $ (2007)
Marguerita Pizza, 6505 Clark, 276-6126—The city may not be the best city in the world for pizza, but it does have a good selection of pizza/focaccia bakeries and our favorite of the moment is Marguerita. They’ve been around since 1910, they still use their original recipes and proof their dough the old-fashioned way in their big, beautiful proofing cabinets, and they’ve still got their original brick oven on premises (although these days it only gets fired up as a back-up for their conventional ovens)—best yet, you can taste the tradition in their lovely pizzas. Open Monday-Saturday. $ (2007)
Marilou, 4675 St. Laurent, 849-4447 (Plateau)—Grilled food typical of the Azores and Madeira. See SA & Fils & Marilou for more details. Recommended: grilled calamari, grilled chicken. $$ (2006)
Mas Cuisine, 3779 Wellington, 544-3779 (Verdun)--Opened late in 2008, Mas Cuisine has quickly become one of the brightest lights in the Montreal fine dining scene. Earlier we wrote, "We've already had two of the very best meals of 2009 there, and we intend to return for more. Phenomenal lunch special." Well, all of that is true. What's changed is that now I've been back for dinner, and, as of late August, Mas Cuisine is officially my Restaurant of the Year. Highlights included a seared giant scallop + tempura-fried squash blossom entremets that came graced with a phenomenal tomato-based, vanilla-laced foam; and a seared fillet of cod with Gaspé shrimp and orange zest, French string beans, wilted spinach, potato purée, and jus. Great service. Great ambiance. Great prices, too--$30-40 for their three-course prix fixe menu. Still need convincing? Read a review of their extraordinary lunch special here. $-$$ (2009)
McKiernan, 2485 Notre-Dame W., 759-6677 (Little Burgundy)—The latest from the folks who brought you Joe Beef and Liverpool House is another hit. McKiernan (named after Charles McKiernan, a.k.a. “Joe Beef”) is a diminutive luncheonette & bar à vins and they’ve got two specialties at the moment: deluxe sandwiches, including chicken tikka with two chutneys (mint and mango), the Ari Baikowitz “All-Beef Special” (a clever riff on the legendary Wilensky Special), and a roast pork number with cheese curds and caramelized onions; and lovely appetizers, including one of the city’s very best charcuterie plates (all of it made in-house) and some very reasonably priced oysters. You can find a full report here. Oh, yeah: they also offer a special brunch on Saturdays only that is one of the city’s best. Don’t believe me? Try the deluxe sautéed shrimp, poached egg, biscuit, and gravy combo, or the smoked brisket on a homemade English muffin with eggs. $-$$ (2009)
La Mer, 1840 René-Lévesque E., 522-3003 (Village)—In the past we had great things to say about La Mer, but after our last visit we’ve decided that Montreal is just cursed when it comes to seafood, regardless of what people might say. You see, Michelle went to La Mer to buy some live Dungeness crab and she couldn’t help but noticed that all of the crabs in the tank were dead. As the guy started to bag my purchase, she mentioned that they were dead (and therefore wouldn’t be buying them, thanks)… The guy just dumped them back in the tank and walked away.
Milano, 6862 St. Laurent, 273-8558 (Little Italy)—Definitely the biggest and quite possibly the best of the city’s full-service Italian delicatessens. An excellent source for everything from Arborio rice, Italian canned tuna, olive oil, panforte, pasta, truffles, and every other Italian food item you can possibly imagine.
Milos, 5357 Ave. du Parc, 272-3522 (Mile End)—One of Montreal’s most famous seafood restaurant. Huge selection of the freshest seafood in town, all grilled to perfection. Don’t leave without having some of their Greek spoon sweets for dessert. You might as well go all the way, right? Very high-calibre, with prices to match. $$$ (2005)
Mister Spicee, 6889 Victoria (Côte des Neiges)—Our new favorite Trini, hole-in-the-wall, take-out hot spot. Homemade patties and ridiculously good doubles are the highlights here. Make sure to request the house hot sauce or tamarind sauce—or, better yet, both—with your doubles. The chicken and chickpeas double—fresh, shredded chicken curried with chickpeas, served between a couple of steaming hot, tasty flatbreads, and slathered with the two house sauces—was particularly spectacular. Plus, who can argue with a place called Mister Spicee? And why would you even want to? Because they’re really friendly, too. $ (2009)
Momesso, 5562 Upper Lachine Rd., 484-0005 (NDG)—Lured to this NDG institution by its associations with Sergio Momesso and by rumors of a meatball sub, I discovered that, in fact, there is no meatball sub at Momesso, but that they make up for this in spades with the rest of their lineup of hot Italian subs. Fave of the moment: spicy Italian sausage sub. $
DEFUNCT! Montée de Lait, 371 rue Villeneuve E., 289-9921 (Plateau)—Sadly, La Montée de Lait on Villeneuve is no more, but the owners are just on the verge of re-opening on Bishop as La Montée. Hopefully we’ll be able to continue to lavish this kind of praise: “Easily one of our favourite spots, especially for a romantic little dinner for two. The ambience is charming, the food is excellent, and the price/value ratio is definitely right. The dinner formule gets you 4 courses for $40, and the choices range from seafood, vegetables, meats, cheese, and dessert. Everything we had there was amazing (but we were especially impressed by our pan-seared tuna dish, a lovely eggplant pancake adorned with oignons confits and chèvre chaud, and their superlative selection of cheeses [22 on the night we visited!]) and the service was perfect. They also have a nice selection of wines by the glass and the menu comes with some interesting suggestions for matching their wines and their dishes. Finally, their lunch has got to be one of the city’s greatest deals—two exceptional courses for $14. No joke. We had everything from braised beef cheeks, to ravioli stuffed with suckling pig, to poached salmon served on polenta on a recent lunchtime visit. Beat that. Very highly recommended.” $$-$$$ (2007)
Moti Mehal, 1024 Jean-Talon W., 315–8801 (Park Ex)--Moti Mehal has gotten a number of excellent reviews, including this one, but thus far the flocks of people who come to this strip of Jean-Talon in search of exotic South Asian fare don't seem to have discovered Moti Mehal. Every time we've been, the place has been more or less deserted. I hope that changes because Moti Mehal's kitchen turns out some very good food, including a Chicken Balti which, in my opinion, is the city's best. $ (2009)
Moulerie, 1249 Bernard W., 273-8132 (Outremont)—As the name suggests, Outremont’s specialist for moules frites. $$-$$$ (2005)
Mycoboutique, 820 Rachel E., 223-6977 (Plateau)—Montreal’s premiere mushroom specialist. You won’t find any magic mushrooms, but you will find about 40 other varieties, some fresh, some dried, others frozen. They also carry all kinds of other mushroom-related paraphernalia for all the mycophiles and/or aspiring mushroom hunters in your life.
Myriade, 1432 rue MacKay, 939-1717, www.cafemyriade.com (Downtown)--Hands down, easily, no questions about it: our favorite new-school Montreal espresso bar. Phenomenal beans (49th Parallel, for the most part), daily specials, nice equipment, great touch, weekly coffee tastings--hell, even their drip coffee is amazing (they only make small batches, and they only keep those small batches around for a maximum of 20 minutes!). These people know what they're doing, but, equally importantly, they've created a café space that's a pleasure to go to. $ (2009)
