The List, Pt. 2: N-Z

Wing’s, Chinatown

“…an endless banquet” Montreal Food Guide, pt. 2

$ Inexpensive
$$ Mid-range
$$$ Expensive

Dates in brackets indicate the last time we visited the restaurant in question.

All phone numbers are area code (514) numbers unless otherwise noted.

Niu Kee, 1163 Clark, 227-0464 (Chinatown)—Our favorite Montreal Chinese restaurant of the last few years is now under new management, and it took us a good six months to work up the courage to take another look. We were worried, but we needn’t have been. Yes, things have changed. We miss the former Chinese opera singer and her Chinese opera posters, we miss the pyrotechnics that were part and parcel of the Kung Pao dishes back in the day, but everything we had on our most recent visit (Kung Pao chicken, pork & chive dumplings, hot & sour soup, sautéed pea shoots, spicy eggplant) was very, very good. $-$$ (2008)

Nouveau Falero, 5726-A Ave. du Parc, 274-1440 (Mile End)—Nouveau Falero might not have the overwhelmingly enormous selection that some stores have, but between their original store on the ground floor and their sashimi-quality fish/prepared foods division upstairs, they’re pretty damn thorough, and, more importantly, everything generally looks fantastic. Definitely our favorite fishmonger in the Plateau/Mile End.

Olives et Épices, 7070 Henri-Julien, 271-0001, Jean-Talon Market (Little Italy)—The second in the growing chain of excellent De Vienne family enterprises, along with Philippe de Vienne’s original catering operation and La Dépense, their newest creation (see the Montreal Food Guide, A-M), Olives et Épices is still first in our hearts. You see, it was here that we first discovered De Vienne’s truly fantastic line of épices cru and life hasn’t been the same since (for proof of this, check out Olive et Épices).

Orange Julep, 3100 Sherbrooke E., 522-3711 (Hochelaga)—Gibeau Orange Julep might get all the press and most of the attention, but Montreal actually has not one but two classic combination orange-julep-specialist/diner, the lesser known one being the succinctly named Orange Julep on Sherbrooke in Hochelaga. Hard to believe, but even though Gibeau Orange Julep’s got six years on its East Montreal cousin, this Orange Julep actually feels like more of a time warp. Of course, this might have something to do with the golden-aged waitstaff (as opposed to the teenyboppers who sling juleps at Gibeau). Much of the pleasure of going to Orange Julep is design- and architecture-oriented—the classic carhop lines, the fantastic neon sign, the gorgeous counter, the vintage signs adorning the men’s and women’s rooms—but they make a very good sandwich, an excellent hot dog toasté, and an honest poutine, and while their julep is not as forthright as Gibeau’s, it’s the real thing, not the toxic aberration you get at chains like Orange Julius. $ (2007)

La Paryse, 302 Ontario E., 842-2040 (Latin Quarter)—For a small place with a limited menu, La Paryse has tons going for it: big, beautiful hamburgers (make it a bacon & cheeseburger!), excellent veggie burgers (tofu with miso-ginger dressing), top-notch fries, and rock-solid shakes (ask them to mix their chocolate and coffee and make it a mocha! they will!!). Plus, they're just a short walk from the Cinémathèque Québécoise. $ (2009)

Patati Patata Friterie de Luxe, 4177 St. Laurent Blvd. (Plateau)—If there’s a cuter French Fry (or casse-croute , for that matter) in town, I’m not aware of it. Not only are they crispy, golden-brown and delicious, but they’re almost matchstick-size and they come in these little, old-fashioned wooden baskets. Patati Patata also makes all their burgers (including nice little tofu burgers) in mini-size. They kind of remind me of the way the Little Tavern chain of fast food restaurants—a chain that had stretched from New York to Washington, D.C. in the ‘40s and ‘50s, then finally shut down in the late ‘80s-early ‘90s—used to make them. At Little Tavern you could order individual burgers, but most people used to order their burgers by “the bag,” a half-dozen at a time. I wish Patati Patata would pick up that habit. Recommended: fries, burgers, sandwiches, shakes. $ (2008)

Pâtisserie Alati-Caserta, 277 Dante, 271-3013 (Little Italy)—Very good, “old school” Italian patisserie that’s known for its zeppole di San Giuseppe and other Italian holiday treats. They also make a very good lemon sorbetto during the summer.

Pâtisserie Mahrousé, 1010 Rue de Liège W., 276-1629 (“la Petite Belgique”)—Our favorite Middle Eastern patisserie of the moment, Mahrousé specializes in Syrian pastries and we’re particularly fond of all things pistachio there because they use only the best.

Paul Patates Inc., 0760 Charlevoix, 937-2751 (Pointe St-Charles)—Seriously excellent toastés and choice fries (what do you expect from a guy named “Paul Patates”?) in a classically kétaine diner setting (“depuis 1958”), and you can wash them both down with a legendary Bertrand spruce beer (“since 1898”). $ (2007)

Petit Alep, 191 Jean-Talon E., 270-9361 (Little Italy)—Petit Alep plays the younger, hipper, and, yes, smaller sibling to Restaurant Alep’s grander, more stately surroundings (which we’ve yet to experience firsthand). Their Syrian menu is very good and very reasonably priced, and the atmosphere is informal and fun. $ (2007)

Le Petit Toscan, 4515 Marquette (Plateau East)—This spot was the cutest, most beautiful casse-croute in town just a few years ago. It’s such a beautiful location, and among other things they had one of the nicest remaining neon signs in the city (L’Idéal!). Now it houses a lovely little Italian restaurant that manages to serve up wonderful modern Italian somehow out of the tiniest of kitchens. Recommended: Grilled Tuna, homemade pasta. $$-$$$ (2005)

Pho Bac 97, 1016 St Laurent Blvd. (Chinatown)—No question about it: this is our favorite phô specialist in town. Their broth is rich in flavor and their thinly-sliced steak is unbeatable. No frills Vietnamese soul food. See ”Pho Bac 97” and ”Pho #7,” our second and third posts (!). $ (2008)

NEW! Pho Lien, 5703-B Côte des Neiges (CDN)--People often get seduced by the fixings, and there's definitely something to be said about places that deliver on the ultra-fresh toppings, but, when it comes to phô, it's really all about the broth, and Michelle's current favorite can be found here, at Phô Lien. $ (2009)

Pho Tay Ho, 6414 St-Denis, 273-5627 (Little Italy)—Pho Tay Ho has jumped into our Top Three when it comes to Montreal Vietnamese. Want to know why? Check out their seafood pho, their grilled pork bún (which comes complete with a massive array of accompaniments: noodles, salad greens, marinated vegetables, limes, herbs, galangal root, etc.), or their Vietnamese steak tartare. Need to know more? Read this review. $ (2009)

Pintxo, 256 Roy E., 844-0222 (Plateau)—Nice Basque-style tapas (pintxos) and an impressive wine list to complement them. Check out this article for more on Pintxo and the contemporary pintxos that are the specialty of the house. $$ (2005)

Pizzeria Napoletana, 189 Dante E., 276-8226 (Little Italy)—A Little Italy institution (now celebrating its 60th anniversary!) specializing in thin-crust pizza. $$ (2006)

Los Planes, 531 Bélanger E., 277-6378 (Little Italy)—Our preferred pupuseria of the moment. See ”Pupusas!” Recommended: pupusas of all sorts, tamales, fresh juices. $ (2007)

Pop!, 250 Ave. des Pins E., 287-1648 (Plateau)—In addition to their usual selection of quality wines, Laloux’s bar à vins/cocktail bar has been serving some pretty delicious cocktails (including the house drink, the Avenue des Pins, as featured in EnRoute , and my personal favorite, the High Wind in Jamaica) ever since Michelle took over duties as the resident mixologist. Now, with James MacGuire as Executive Director, they're in the process of overhauling the menu, and Michelle has taken over as Pop!'s pastry chef. $$ (2009)

Porc Meilleur, 7070 Henri-Julien, 276-4872 (Little Italy)—As their name claims, the folks at Porc Meilleur distribute some of the best pork products in the city (they raise, butcher, and smoke their own hogs on a farm somewhere outside of Montreal) from their little Jean-Talon Market storefront. Recommended: maple-smoked bacon and lardons, hams.

Provisions, 1595 St-Laurent Blvd., 844-9656 (Lower Main)—There’s definitely something of David Chang’s Momofuku (NYC) to Provisions. You won’t find any ramen noodles and Provisions isn’t nearly as rock ‘n’ roll, but there’s a similar interest in bringing high-end sophistication to popular cuisine, in this case: the sandwich. Great ingredients, great execution, and home-baked bread to boot. Highly recommended: the roasted pork shoulder sandwich and the confited chicken sandwich. For more details, check this out (and please note that the rating was supposed to read *** 3/4 out of ****). $ (2008)

Le P’tit Plateau, 330 Marie-Anne E., 282-6342 (Plateau)—We’d been wanting to go to this place for years. For some reason it took until just now (January 2007). Well, the cuisine really lives up to just how appealing Le P’tit Plateau always looks from the outside, with its golden glow, and its packed house regaling themselves on southwestern French specialties. Truly one of those quintessential cute little Plateau restos. Recommended: the fish soup with its potent rouille, the baked escargots, the cassoulet, and the magret de canard with French string beans, potatoes Dauphinois, and confited giblets. Pricey, but the portions are generous and it’s absolutely worth it, and it’s a BYOB restaurant, so you can bring yourself a nice bottle of wine for a fraction of what you’d normally pay in a restaurant. $$-$$$ (2007)

Pullman, 3424 ave. du Parc, 288-7779 (Downtown)—An upscale wine bar featuring interesting bites to eat. A large selection of wines by the glass, offered in 2 oz. or 4 oz. quantities, many of which are privately imported. A great place to decompress after work. $$ (2005)

NEW! Qing Hua, 1676 Lincoln Ave, (438) 288-5366 (Downtown)--Quite possibly our favorite culinary destination of 2009, and now, after a painfully slow relocation from St-Marc to Lincoln, we're happy to report that Qing Hua is back in action and just as good as ever. For a more detailed account from this spring, check this out. $ (2009)

Quincaillerie Dante, 6851 St-Dominique, 271-2057 (Little Italy)—Every once in a while we come across a glaring omission in this list, a place we should have listed right from the start, but somehow neglected to include. This is one of them. Quincaillerie Dante is simply one of our favorite shops in Montreal. Part gun shop (catering to Montreal’s more tradition-minded hunters), part kitchen supply store, Quincaillerie Dante is a true original. Their selection of kitchen supplies is fantastic, their prices are fair, they often have very attractive sales, their staff is terribly knowledgeable, and we consider Dante our number one resource for canning. What more do you need? How about a cooking school? Yep, they’ve got one of those too. The courses are very popular and deservedly so—we highly recommend Elena’s pasta courses in particular.

Reservoir, 9 Duluth E., 849-7779 (Plateau)— This micro-brasseur and gastropub has offered the best brunch in the city (weekends only) for the last several years, but Reservoir ain’t just about the breakfasts. Their evening fare is reasonably priced, expertly prepared, seasonal, and creative. There’s a reason the quality is remarkable all-around—chef Samuel Pinard has a pedigree that includes Au Pied de Cochon and Toqué, and, like both of those heavyweights, he cares about his suppliers and he keeps things seasonal. Recommended: homemade gravlax, with delicately roasted baby potatoes, mâche, and a Zubrowka vodka-laced sour cream, and eggs over-easy served with fatback bacon, and sautéed fiddleheads, crab guédille (think lobster roll, but with crab) with cherry tomatoes and watercress and fresh-cut fries, excellent oyster-on-the-half-shell specials, and one of the finest steak tartares in the city. They also happen to make some fine beers. $$ (2009)

Restaurant Pho Viet, 1663 Amherst St., 522-4116 (The Village)—Strangely, we’ve never tried their pho in spite of their name and the fact that their business card proudly announces, “specialité soupe tonkinoise,” but everything else we’ve had there has generally been very good. Recommended: hot and sour soup, grilled beef and grilled shrimp brochette with vermicelli, and, last but certainly not least, they have a very good poached fish special with ginger sauce. $ (2007)

Restaurant Thaïlande, 88 Bernard W. (Mile End)—This place is easy to miss due to its unassuming exterior. Once inside, the food will quickly win you over. Try the grilled fish (whole). Very good vermicelli salad and a reliable Pad Thai, too. $$ (2006)

Ripples, 3880 St. Laurent, 842-1697 (Plateau)—For 20 years, one of Montreal’s finest ice cream makers. Get the whole scoop (sorry) at “The Three “R’s”.

Roberto’s, 2221 Bélanger E., 374-9844 (Little Italy East)—One of the few and perhaps the finest gelateria in town. See “The Three “R’s” for more details.

Le Roi du Plateau, 51 Rachel W., 844-8393 (Plateau)—Yet another one of Montreal’s wonderful neighborhood Portuguese restaurants (in fact, with a location across from the central Portuguese church in Montreal, Église Santa Cruz, Le Roi du Plateau, along with Rotisserie Portugalia, is at the epicenter of Portuguese culture in this city). You’ll find all the classics, including a wonderfully spicy grilled chicken (that is if you ask for it spicy, like we did), grilled pork dishes of all stripes, and grilled seafood dishes, including a grilled shrimp and vegetable brochette which ranks among the city’s very best at any price. Friendly atmosphere, extremely reliable kitchen. $-$$ (2006)

Roma, 6776 St. Laurent, 273-9357 (Little Italy)—“Old school” Italian bakery and pastry shop that has nice foccacia, pizza, pastries, gelatos and sorbettos. Read more here .

Romados Rotisserie & Boulangerie, 115 Rachel E., 849-1803 (Plateau)—Yet another of Montreal’s excellent Portuguese rotisserie chicken hot spots. Romados grills their chicken, pork, and fish over a charcoal fire, then bastes each in however much spicy goodness you want afterwards. The premises also include a very good Portuguese bakery—great Portuguese rolls, great pasties de natas, etc.—and a full service deli counter. Recommended: one whole chicken, extra spicy. $ (2009)

Rotisserie Laurier, 381 Laurier W., 273-3671 (Outremont) —A classic roasted chicken joint (it's been around since the 1930s) with comfy booths and good service. Love those buttery flat rolls that go perfectly with chicken and coleslaw? They have them here. $-$$ (2006)

Rotisserie Portugalia, 34 Rachel W., 282-1519 (Plateau) —This is one of our neighborhood mainstays. Spicy Portuguese-style grilled chicken to go or to stay. That Jeanne-Mance Park is two blocks away makes it a perfect picnic stop. Order your chicken ahead of time (2 hours ahead on weekdays, 4-5 hours on weekends)--demand is heavy. Not surprising. They're the best. Call ‘em up and be sure to make it extra spicy. $ (2008)

Rotisserie Serrano/Serrano Bar-B-Q, 161 St Viateur W., 271-3728 (Mile End) — I know, the third roast chicken place in a row. Blame the language laws. This place makes a great chicken sandwich for less than $5. See our post for the full story. $ (2007)

Rumi, 5198 Hutchison, 490-1999 (Outremont)—As the name suggests, this cozy Outremont restaurant takes its inspiration from Sufism, and specifically from the cuisines of a wide swath of land stretching west from Mesopotamia to Morocco, including Turkey and the Levant, that was profoundly touched by the Sufi Way. Thus, you’ll find everything from Iranian-style kebabs to Moroccan-style tagines. Recommended: chicken kebabs, lamb and veal kebabs, meze. $$ (2007)

SA & Fils, 4701 St. Urbain, 842-3373—It’s our “local,” so we had to include it. Their beer prices are cheap, we swear by their bacon, they make a great sandwich for under $4.00, and on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday, they have a $6.99 special on their rotisserie chickens. You can find more details here .

Sala Rosa, 4848 St. Laurent Blvd., 284-0122 (Plateau/Mile End)—One of our favorite tapas joints in Montreal, and one of our preferred locations for big groups and parties . On Thursdays they have a flamenco dancer with live accompaniment. Great brunches, too, although we’ve heard rumors that they scrapped them recently. $-$$ (2008)

Salle à Manger, 1302 Mont-Royal E., 522–0777 (Plateau)--Samuel Pinard's (see Reservoir) restaurant instantly became our fave Montreal restaurant of 2008. Beautiful, minimal, roomy, and boisterous surroundings + an adventurous menu that is notable for its bold combinations and its outrageous, oversized group dishes + home-baked bread & killer desserts by Danny + a well-priced, well-chosen, user-friendly wine list + big bottles of Belgium's delicious Saison Dupont beer = a whole lotta love. Recommended: Spanish sherry-glazed sweetbreads, venison carpaccio, foie gras torchon, halibut with os à la moëlle croquettes, confited pork tenderloin with pan-seared sashimi-grade tuna, seared New Brunswick cod with cucumbers, tomato, mint, fried halloumi cheese, and some crazy boudin noir-laced yogurt concoction. You can find a full review here. $$-$$$ (2009)

Schwartz’s, 3895 St Laurent Blvd., 842-4813 (Plateau)—The one, the original, Schwartz’s has many pretenders to the throne, but in our estimation it’s still #1. There’s nothing like the spicy goodness of their beef brisket (it’s their use of spices that sets their meat apart) as long as you make sure not to take yours “lean” (go with “medium” or, better yet, “fatty” for the full effect, unless your doctor strictly forbids it). There’s still nothing like the atmosphere of Schwartz’s on a typical late night, after the tour buses have cleared out. The classic combo: full-fat smoked meat sandwich or smoked meat platter, half-sour, hot cherry peppers, fries, coleslaw, black cherry cola. Check this post out for more details. $ (2009)

Smoke Meat Pete, 283 1st Ave., 425-6068 (Île Perrot, QC)—If you can get over the name and the fact that they also pride themselves on real Southern BBQ, blues nights, and spaghetti with smoked meat sauce, this Île Perrot hangout is certainly the best smoked meat off the island of Montreal. It’s no Schwartz’s or Snowdon Deli, but it’ll do in a pinch if you live west of Montreal and can’t be bothered to head into town, or if you’re driving back to Montreal from Ontario and can’t bear the thought of waiting another second to get your smoked meat fix. They’re reputed by some to have the best fries in the Montreal region, too, but we’ve yet to hit them on a day where they’ve been spot-on. $ (2006)

Snowdon Deli, 5265 Décarie Blvd., 488-9129 (Décarie)—This is as close to a Miami-style deli as you’re going to find in Montreal, and, believe me, that’s no insult. You'll find a bunch of old favorites on their menu, including a respectable "old-fashioned" smoked meat sandwich, but I sure wish they had an "old-fashioned" matzoh ball soup on the menu--that neon-yellow chicken broth has gotta go. $-$$ (2009)

El Sombrero, 500 Belanger, 272-0888 (Rosemont)—Authentic Mexican near the Jean-Talon market is definitely a reason to celebrate. See the whole story. $-$$ (2006)

Soy, 5258 St. Laurent Blvd., 499-9399 (Mile End)—A fairly typical Montreal pan-Asian restaurant whose food can be hit-or-miss. Check out a review here. $-$$ (2008)

The Sparrow, 5322 St-Laurent, 690-3964 (to text reservations for parties of five or more) (Mile End)--This Mile End gastropub has instantly become one of the neighborhood's prime hot spots. Now, if the City of Montreal would only grant them a %$@#! liquor license... For more details, read a review here. $$ (2009)

Supermarché Rahman, a.k.a. Le Paradis de la Bière, a.k.a. The Beer Dep, 151 Laurier W., 279-2256 (Mile End)—This isn’t our “local,” the dépanneur we go to most regularly for our beer drinking needs, but it’s pretty damn close and that’s a very good thing because, with some 300 beers on offer, it just happens to be one of the true highlights of Montreal’s beerscape. Very competitive prices too.

Sur Bleury, 1067 Bleury, 866-6161 (Centre-ville)—Downtown’s been in dire need of a lunch spot with the style and chops to rival Titanic and Cluny, and now it’s got one. Sandwiches are the central attraction here and you can’t go wrong with either braised pork with Ancho chile number or the steak sandwich made with a healthy hunk of hanger steak. Their salads are also strong—the trout gravlax salad with beets was particularly good—and they make a fine poutine, too. $ (2006)

DEFUNCT! Tabaq, 149 Jean-Talon Blvd. W., 277-9339 (Jean-Talon market)—This is what we had to say way back when: “A great Pakistani restaurant across the street from Café Union. Delicious and cheap. Want to know more? “ The fact that they’d started serving burger/fries/Coca-Cola “trios” earlier this year was a tip-off that business was no longer good. $ (2006)

Tapeo, 511 Villeray E., 495-1999 (Jarry-Villeray)—During her April 2006 appearance at Blue Metropolis Ruth Reichl was of course pressed to name her favorite Montreal restaurants. She named a few, but at the top of the list sat Tapeo, and among other reasons she mentioned her undying affection for Mediterranean cuisines, especially when they’re well-executed. Well, after a couple of recent visits, including a lunch and a dinner, we’d have to say we’re very much in agreement with Reichl. We find it hard to get enough of Mediterranean cuisine of all stripes, especially when it’s well-executed, we’re particularly crazy about Spanish cuisine, and Tapeo’s perfectly prepared tapas dishes, its informal yet attentive service, and its lively atmosphere have instantly made it one of our favorite Montreal restaurants. Recommended: seared scallops wrapped in lard fumé with quince marmalade and Xérès vinegar; gambas with romanesco sauce; baked tilapia with rapini and almonds; and the best tortilla I’ve ever tasted. $$-$$$ (2008)

Tapioca Thé, 1672 Maisonneuve W., 223-4095 (Downtown)—With its name, its bright pink interior, and its tea bar, Tapioca Thé appears to be just another one in the growing legion of bubble tea establishments that have spread across the city in recent years. But it also happens to play home to one of the fieriest Szechwan kitchens in the city, and, as a result, it quickly became our favorite Chinese resto of the moment earlier this year. Recommended: twice-cooked pork, cumin beef, ma po tofu, gong bao chicken, stir-fried green beans, hot chili wontons, water-boiled beef. Read the full review in the Mirror here. But please note: since submitting that review, over the course of two subsequent visits, we’ve had a few less than stellar dishes at Tapioca Thé and strangely enough all three were dishes that we loved the first time around, but were totally different and totally inferior the second time around: Gong Bao Chicken, Ma Po Tofu, and especially the Twice-Cooked Pork. In the case of the Gong Bao Chicken, it was overly sweet, overly starchy, and disappointing. In the case of the Ma Po Tofu, it was overly starchy, strangely perfumed (rose?), but somehow still bland. In the case of the Twice-Cooked Pork, not only did it not taste the same, not only did the pork not seem twice cooked, but the cut of pork was about 70% fat. Meanwhile, other dishes on these latter visits continued to be amazing (stir-fried green beans, for instance). Go figure. $

Titanic, 445 St Pierre, 849-0894 (Old Montreal)—When I used to work downtown, my co-workers and I would look forward to Titanic lunches all week. We would sneak out for an extra-long break and lounge in this lovely lunch spot. Great sandwiches, like the Italian sausage or the smoked mackerel, amazing daily specials, the best coffee (Café Union, of course), and delicious desserts. Don’t tell your boss! Open weekdays for lunch only. $-$$ (2006)

Tortilleria Maya, 234 Jean-Talon East (entrances both street-side and market-side), 495-0606--(Jean-Talon Market)—We're sad to say that Tortilleria Maya is no longer located just a hop, skip, and a jump from AEB HQ anymore, but our loss is Jean-Talon Market's gain (and hopefully Tortilleria Maya's too). Without question, the city's best source for fresh, hot corn tortillas. $ (2009)

Les Touilleurs, 152 Laurier W., 278-0008 (Mile End)—One of our favourite kitchen stores. Don’t be thrown off by the high-end ambience, Les Touilleurs has plenty of kitchen items that are perfectly affordable, and, anyway, even if you can’t afford everything, it’s still nice to just look sometimes, and the staff here are always happy to let you browse away in peace. Les Touilleurs expanded not so long ago, so they’re now twice as big as they used to be, and the new space now features a full-service kitchen which they’ll be using for cooking classes and cooking demonstrations.

Trattoria Senza Nome, 9700 St. Michel, 389-6732 (Montreal North)—One of our favorite no-nonsense Italian restaurants of the last couple of years, and certainly the most unique. Senza Nome has no set hours, no menu, and no name. The food is simple but always satisfying—don’t miss out on their antipasto platter and anything involving porcini mushrooms, a mainstay of their import operation. Summer, when you can relax on their terrace under the grapevines, is the best time to visit. Call to make an appointment. You generally need a party of 6-8 to get them to open their doors. Large parties are welcome and you might just get a better deal too. Check out this review for even more thoughts/info. $$ (2006)

Tri Express, 1650 Laurier E., 52805641 (Plateau)--I'm still not sure what took us so long, especially given the fact that Michelle was a big fan of Treehouse (chef Tri's former home) when I first met her, and Laurier East is Michelle's ex-neighborhood (and one of our favorite in the city), but for some reason it took us ages to make it to Tri Express. Well, we finally made it and now we're really kicking ourselves, because (as many others have reported) it's very, very good. Intimate setting, eclectic décor, good atmosphere, but, most importantly, they've got a deft hand when it comes to sushi and sashimi, and their prices are extremely reasonable, given the high quality (especially if you let them do the driving and go with one of their specials). Is Tri Express our new #1 Montreal sushi bar? It's too early to say, but it's certainly shaping up that way. Recommended: Maki de Homard à la Tri. $$ (2009)

Trois Petits Bouchons, 4669 Rue St-Denis, 285-4444 (Plateau)—Newish bistro and wine bar in a cozy, rustic, downstairs location with exposed stone walls that’s actually trying hard to redeem St.-Denis (and succeeding). High marks for attentive service, a very good wine list, and a kitchen that’s open late. Hits: homemade pissaladière; charcuterie plate with artisanal bresaola, jamon, and saucisson; confit de canard on a bed of barley, almonds, and currants. $$ (2006)

DEFUNCT! Uyghur, 1017 St-Laurent Blvd., 393-8808 (Chinatown)—This cavernous banquet hall-style restaurant used to be a dim sum palace, according to A., but it’s now the only place we know of where you can sample the cuisine of Northwest China’s Xianjian Uyghur Autonomous Region, with its unique blend of Chinese, Mongolian, Afghani, and Persian flavors. It’s worth going for the homemade and handmade noodles alone, which are served with a delicious stir-fry of lamb and vegetables (Laghman). Also recommended: won ton soup (again, with homemade tortellini-like noodles), meat pies, kebabs, stir-fried eggplant. $-$$ (2006)

Via Dante, 251 Dante E., 270-8446 (Little Italy)—While by day it's not much more than a modest neighborhood café, by night Via Dante is just about as perfect a trattoria as you’re likely to find, with that perfect balance of informal atmosphere, attentive service, a rock-solid wine list, and top-notch homestyle Italian (that is, if Momma used to stuff her gnocchi with mixed wild mushrooms), right down to the lovely olive oil they serve with their bread. Recommended: the abovementioned gnocchi, lobster-stuffed ravioli, otherworldly sautéed shiitakes, pancetta-wrapped filet mignon. Oh, yeah: and don't miss out on their truly expert espressos. $$-$$$ (2006)

Wawel Patisserie, 1413 St-Marc, 938-8388 (Downtown), 7070 Henri-Julien (@ Jean-Talon Market), 279-8289 (Little Italy), and 5499 Sherbrooke W., 483-1042 (Westmount)—Wawel’s phenomenal Polish doughnuts have been a staple of ours for years. Our favorite is the plum-filled doughnut, but that apricot one is pretty amazing, too. When they come out fresh, forget about it. I was once at their St-Marc store when a tray of 20 hot plum doughnuts was brought out onto the shop floor. There were four of us in the store at the time—myself and a party of three that I didn’t know. Between the four of us we cleaned off that tray in less than a minute.

Wilensky’s Light Lunch, 34 Fairmount W., 271-0247 (Mile End)—As its name suggests, this is a lunch counter that’s open only weekdays until 4:00, and it looks like it hasn’t been changed since the ‘40s. Fabled to be one of the great hangover cures, the Wilensky Special is still well under $5. So what if it’s simply a pressed hot bologna sandwich with mustard? Some days nothing else comes close. Order yours with Kraft cheese for the full experience. An institution (sometimes in more than one sense), and not just because of The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz. More on Wilenksky’s here. $ (2009)

Yannick Fromagerie, 1218 Bernard W., 279-9376 (Outremont)—This fromagerie occupies the same location once held by Fromagerie Chaput. The quality hasn’t slipped a bit since the transition, and, in fact, things may very well have improved because the selection has gotten wider. Don’t be put off by the space’s boutique feel and the fact that there’s no self-service, the staff are generally very friendly and rather generous with samples. Don’t be embarrassed to ask for a number of samples. The regulars often ask for a dozen or more p’tits gouts. The best thing about Yannick is that they’re expert in offering cheeses right at the height of perfection. Don’t miss their lait cru Vacherins. Highly recommended.