New Kid on the Block

fig. a: panna cotta with melon

Just like that, Montreal's latest little pâtisserie has joined the ranks of its best.

Owned and operated by chef Stéphanie Labelle, whose resumé includes stints with Les Chocolats de Chloé, Decca 77, Club 357, Pierre Hermé, and, most recently, a pastry chef position at La Salle à Manger, Pâtisserie Rhubarbe is a fine addition to Montreal's sweetsscape.

AEB faves already include the silky tonka bean-laced panna cotta with confited melon and pound cake that you see above, and the truly wonderful pumpkin dômes you see below.

fig. b: jack-o-lantern dômes

Just another Hallowe'en-themed meringue cookie? Not at all. Here, the tender meringue dôme (that's right, tender) is filled with a seductive caramel, pear, hazelnut concoction. The combo is totally irresistible. (Seriously. Michelle was hardly able to get a taste before I devoured it.) It also shows off a little of that Hermé touch (without showing off).

Now, we've been good friends with Ms. Labelle for years, so it's true that we're pulling for her, but that doesn't mean our critical capacities are clouded. Everything we've tried so far is simply a cut above. And it's such a cute shop, too.

Félicitations, Pâtisserie Rhubarbe! And welcome to the neighborhood!!

fig. c: rhubarbe hits the spot

Pâtisserie Rhubarbe, 5091 de Lanaudière, 903-3395 (Plateau)
Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 11 am - 7 pm

am/km

AEB classics #75: Perfect Pumpkin Pie

fig. a: One-Pie Pumpkin

This is the best pumpkin pie recipe either of us have ever come across.

When my Dad developed a sudden and rather unexpected passion for pumpkin pie late in life, this pumpkin pie leapfrogged right into his dessert Pantheon. Michelle surprised him with a freshly baked Perfect Pumpkin Pie once and you'd have thought he'd just tasted ambrosia. He never stopped talking about it.

Anyway, it's quick and easy too. Perfect for any last-minute Thanksgiving Day plans.

Perfect Pumpkin Pie

part 1: sweet crust

1/2 cup butter, cut into small cubes
1/2 cup sugar
1/8 tsp. salt
1 3/4 cups flour
1 egg

Place the sugar, salt and flour in a bowl and stir together. Add the butter and work it into the dry ingredients until the mixture is homogeneous. Add the egg and mix well, rubbing the dough between your hands until no egg streaks remain. Wrap in plastic and chill for 30 min. Roll out on a lightly floured surface and place in a 9" pie shell. Trim edge and chill again, wrapped. To partially bake, line it with parchment paper and fill with dry rice or beans and bake for 10-15 min. at 375°F until golden. Let cool.

part 2: filling & completion

2 cups pumpkin puree *
3 eggs
1 egg yolk
1 cup heavy cream
3 Tbsp. brandy
3/4 cup sugar
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground ginger
1/8 tsp. ground cloves
1/8 tsp. grated nutmeg
1/8 tsp. ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Mix all of the ingredients together until smooth and pour into a partially baked 9" pie shell. Bake until the filling sets, about 1 hour. Let cool and serve with lightly whipped cream.

[based on a recipe from Tartine by Elizabeth Pruitt and Chad Robertson]

Happy Thanksgiving.

am/km

* By the way, as much as we love the Warholesque charms of One-Pie brand pumpkin pie filling, we recommend using an unsweetened, pure pumpkin pie filling such as E.D. Smith brand for this particular recipe.