On the Road 3: Liquor Barn, Lynn's Paradise

Bourbon Paradise

You're probably not going to find this all that shocking, but Louisville's a mighty fine place to shop for bourbon whiskey.  It's also a great place to drink it.

Which is kind of like saying that Detroit is a great place to shop for a car.  Or drive one.  (You know that Eminem soundtrack kicks in just as soon as you turn that ignition key.)

Anyway, this is a town that prides itself as a "gateway city," as the starting point for Kentucky's rather extensive Bourbon Trail.

 fig. a:  gateway city

This is also a town that's also cultivated its very own rather extensive Urban Bourbon Trail.

But if you've never been, I want to give you a sense of just how fine the bourbon shopping is.

1.  There's no shortage of liquor stores.

2.  The liquor stores tend to open for business early, and they hold long hours.

3.  Even the most generic-looking places can be a wonderland for the bourbon enthusiast, in terms of selection, quality, and connoisseurship.

Take the Liquor Barn chain.  As the name suggests, these are spacious stores.  It would be nice if they were housed inside of reconditioned timber barns, but this is the 21st century, so they're generally just refashioned supermarkets/superstores, with all the charm of a Safeway, a Staples, or a Toys "R" Us, depending on the location.

But the one I visited had a selection of bourbon that was impressive, to say the least, in addition to a selection of spirits, wine, and beer that was positively ridiculous.  Just how much bourbon are we talking about?  Well, they'd taken an entire supermarket aisle (a large one) and they'd renamed it Bourbon Street.  And with good reason.  The entire length of the aisle was fully stocked with bourbon--on both sides, top to bottom.  Bourbon whiskeys of all kinds and all makes.  Some common, many rare.  Some pricey, many very reasonably priced.  Most of the staff members I encountered seemed indifferent ("Bourbon?  Yeah, just over here..."), but the store manager was as savvy as they come, and not a snob by any means.  And Bourbon Country being what it is, this manager was on very good terms with many of the nearby distilleries, like other Liquor Barn locations, he frequently hosted distillers at his store, and he regularly visited the distillers to make his very own barrel selections.  More importantly, he was happy to dispense some advice.

And I was happy to take some advice.  I walked out with a few of his barrel selections, none of which set me back more than $30-35 (and all of which were phenomenal, as it turned out), and I couldn't have been happier, especially considering it was still 9:15 a.m.

 fig. b:  the remains of the Four Roses

If you're just blowing through town on a road trip, like I was,* and you're a bourbon fan, like I am, the Liquor Barn makes for an awfully handy pit stop.

Lynn's Paradise

If you watch a lot of television, especially of the talk show/food variety, you might have encountered Lynn Winter, of Lynn's Paradise fame.  She's got a big personality and she's something of a local/Kentucky legend (among other feats, she was the one who introduced the very first espresso machine to the Bluegrass State in the 1990s [!]), so she gets her fair share of air time.  In fact, I saw her on some morning show whipping up her delirious take on Louisville's famous Hot Brown sandwich not too long ago.  Anyway, her restaurant is one of those places that's big on personality, too.

 fig. c:  Lynn's mascot

You know the kind.  The ones with the arty/retro/über-kitschy ambiance.  The ones where one of your servers might just happen to be dressed like a pirate for no apparent reason.**  Well, Lynn's Paradise is one of those restaurants.  But somehow, quite miraculously, its oversized personality doesn't detract from the experience.  Their staff may dress funny, but they're friendly, they've got a sense of humour, and they're attentive without being clingy.  But, even more importantly, Lynn's happens to be one of those places that hasn't lost sight of the food.

 fig. d:  Lynn's bacon & eggs breakfast

Sure, your breakfast setting might come complete with a wacky "old salt" mug staring right back at you, but they know how to put together a thick-sliced country bacon & eggs breakfast with cheese grits and biscuits.  In fact, they know how to do it well.  And from what I could tell, Lynn knows her way around a Hot Brown, too.

Unfortunately, I was only passing through Louisville, but what I saw, I liked, and Lynn's definitely makes for a tasty, if somewhat kooky, stop.

Liquor Barn, multiple locations across Kentucky, including several in Louisville

Lynn's Paradise Café, 984 Barret Ave., Louisville, KY, (502) 583-3447

aj

* ...which explains the car metaphor up top...

** Hell, what do I know?  He might actually be a pirate.

On the Road 2: Bon-Ton Mini Mart

fig. a: my kind of UFC

I haven't had a chance to test out Bon Appétit's "ultimate fried chicken" yet, but that damn cover image has had the appropriate Pavlovian effect on me. I need ultimate fried chicken now.

Thing is, good fried chicken takes a while. There's definitely a bit of commitment involved. So, I'm pretty sure I won't be frying up a batch of UFC tonight. And true fried chicken--the real deal--can be exceedingly difficult to find.

But that cover does have me thinking about fried chicken (obviously). And, these days, when I think about fried chicken, my thoughts tend to take me to Henderson, KY, sometime last August.

Nearby Owensboro, KY, is one of a number of American towns and cities that proudly proclaims itself the "BBQ Capital of the World." And they've certainly got a claim to that title. That town runs on hickory smoke (and bluegrass).

Henderson, too, is home to a number of reputable BBQ establishments, most of them specializing in the same mix of pork, beef, and mutton that has made Owensboro famous. But as soon as you get to Henderson, what really stands out is the unusual number of fried chicken joints they've got there. None of them major chains (at least, not that I saw). I mean, this town is swimming in Kentucky fried chicken.

Is Henderson the Fried Chicken Capital of the World? I can't rightly say. For one thing, I didn't get a chance to conduct a survey of Henderson's fried chicken scene.  For another, I haven't had the pleasure of visiting any of the Fried Chicken Capitals of the World (Barberton, OH? Gordonsville, VA?) yet. But Henderson certainly looks like it could be a Fried Chicken Capital of the World.

And I can tell you that there's at least one championship fried chicken joint there: Bon-Ton Mini Mart.

Great name. Bold, even. But it's a little hard to find, and it's the most nondescript place imaginable. Just look at it:

fig. b: Bon-Ton Mini Mart

Is there any indication whatsoever that this is a premium fried chicken joint?

I was going on good authority (Jane & Michael Stern), it certainly seemed legit, and it was pretty busy for 2:45 in the afternoon. But you never know.

I had a pretty good feeling when I entered the Mini Mart, though. It smelled good in there, and the set-up was home-style.

I had an even better feeling when I placed my order, however. I was told, "Go ahead and grab a seat. It's going to take about 25 minutes." In other words, real fried chicken, skillet-fried and made to order.

And I had the best feeling of all when those 25 minutes were up. I mean, just look at that crust.

fig. c: Bon-Ton's UFC

Those ladies know their fried chicken.

Oops. I did it again. I'm driving myself crazy. Kentucky Fried Crazy.

Bon-Ton Mini Mart, 2036 Madison Street, Henderson, KY, (270) 826-1207

aj

On the Road 1: Newsom's Country Store

fig. a: real ole time flavor

They ain't kidding. You've heard us wax rhapsodic on this topic before, but Newsom's hams are something special, and a great place to start if you've yet to experience the depth, the character, and the "real ole time flavor" of a true smokehouse-aged country ham.

fig. b: aged ham country

But there's more to Newsom's than just superior hams and a highly personable mail-order business. Much more. There's an actual general store (Newsom's Old Mill Store) right in the heart of historic Princeton, Kentucky, and it's been in the family for almost 100 years now.

fig. c: outside the Old Mill Store

The store's as cute as the dickens, but not in a contrived way--it's a fully functional store, with a wide range of Newsom's own and Newsom's-approved comestibles, in addition to the deli counter where they keep their bacon, pre-sliced packages of their smoky "preacher hams," and other hickory-smoked delicacies.

fig. d: inside the Old Mill Store

If you visit in the late summer, like I did, you won't find any country hams kicking around, unfortunately--the ham "season" begins in the fall and reaches a peak around now, when country hams are being purchased for the holidays. However, you will find the store chock full of local produce, not to mention an impressive selection of dry goods, including a vast array of Southern legumes (like beautiful dried crowder peas!). You're also likely to find the ever-so-charming Nancy "the Ham Lady" Newsom Mahaffey working the floor.

Newsom's Old Mill Store is well worth a Kentucky pilgrimage, but if you're not planning on passing through Kentucky anytime soon, you can still get a vivid sense of the Newsom's tradition by just picking up the phone and placing an order with them, or dropping them a line.

Newsom's Old Mill Store
208 E. Main Street
Princeton, KY 42445
(270) 365-2482 [during store hours: 9:00 am-4:30 pm CST, Monday through Friday, and 9:00 am-3:00 pm CST Saturday]
www.newsomscountryham.com
newsomsham@yahoo.com

aj