Thursday, September 12, 2013

Win-win-win, rev. ed.

2 burlington farmers' market LO fig. a:  Burlington Farmers' Market

The Green Mountain State's Green Revolution continues to flourish, and it's transformed our diminutive neighbour to the south into a leader when it comes to small farming, organic agriculture, and sustainable land management.  This has resulted in a teeming farmers' market scene, a thriving network of cooperative grocery stores spilling over with local organics, and a vibrant (and talented!) farm-to-table dining scene.  Everyone's a winner:  farmers, chefs, and food lovers.

You can read all about it in my latest contribution to the Montreal Gazette.

farm-to-table VT fig. b:  print edition

Want to check things out for yourself, live and in-person?  The article comes with a concise guide to farm-to-table Vermont, plus write-ups about some of our favourite new dining spots in Vermont's Champlain Valley,

3 misery loves company LO fig. c:  roast beef sandwich, Misery Loves Company

like Winooski's Misery Loves Company,

vergennes laundry plum pop LO fig. d:  roasted plum pop, Vergennes Laundry

Vergennes' Vergennes Laundry, and Burlington's Pistou, all of which are doing particularly delicious things with that farm-to-table ethos.

We've expressed this numerous times before, but it bears repeating:  welovermont!

Check it out!

And if you like that article, you might want to check out this oldie-but-goodie, too.

aj

Sunday, September 08, 2013

Cape Cod Capers

CC 3 fig. a:  geography

Ah, Cape Cod!  Your sandy features and abundant coastline hold so many opportunities, so many pleasures!  And your lobsters are so disproportionately large (and tasty)!

scan fig. b:  nostalgia

We're already so nostalgic for you.  It's only been a little over a week since we returned, but it feels like decades.

P1030622









fig. c:  dunes


We miss your sand dunes and your foliage,

P1030619 fig. d:  ark

your quaint little towns and villages with their whimsical sense of style,

P1030627 fig. e:  shells

and your abundant beachcombing opportunities.

P1030632 fig. f:  lobstah & chowdah

But most of all we miss your seafood stores and markets.  Places like Hatch's, Mac's, the Chatham Fish Pier Market, and George's (motto:  "George's plaice has sole."), with their lobster rolls, their beautiful fresh and smoked fish, their briny, inexpensive Wellfleet oysters, and their luscious littlenecks

P1030630 fig. g:  steamahs

and succulent (and sometimes even sandless!) steamers.  Because of you, we ate plentiful seafood each and every day, and in every possible way:  raw, steamed, grilled, pan-fried, etc.

We knew we'd miss your seafood, so we brought some home with us

IMG_0915 fig. h:  sea food

in those lovely lined bags of yours.  We brought back delicious flounder and smoked bluefish, but we were especially excited to be bringing back clams:

P1030647 fig. i:  littlenecks

both littlenecks

P1030651 fig. j:  steamahs

and steamers.  You see, we had it in mind to make some real clam chowder, so we made sure to pick up the other essentials that are so critical to good, old-fashioned chowder-making:

P1030649 fig. k:  bacon

smoky bacon (from New Hampshire),

P1030650 fig. l:  potatoes

seasonal potatoes (from Quebec), and milk and cream (from Vermont).

You can find clam chowder all up and down the Cape, of course, but it's a little difficult to find one to our liking.  The regional preference is for starchy, even stodgy, clam chowder that's heavy with thickeners, but we prefer ours thinner and lighter, with any and all starchiness coming strictly from the potatoes and any crackers or pilot biscuits you might choose to top it off with.  The trick is to chop up your potatoes "thick/thin":  in irregular shapes that are narrower at one end and that cook irregularly.  If you chop 'em and cook 'em just right, the potatoes themselves will thicken your chowder just so.

Clam Chowder 
36 littleneck clams*
125 ml high-quality clam juice [like Bar Harbor] (optional)
4 strips smoky bacon
1 sweet onion, finely chopped
water or high-quality clam juice
9-10 small-medium potatoes, cut thick-thin
1 1/2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup cooking cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
common crackers (optional, but highly recommended) 
If you want a particularly rich clam broth, pour 250 ml of clam juice in a large pot, add the clams, cover the pot, and bring to a boil.  When the liquid comes to a boil, lower the heat, and steam the clams until they've all opened (about 6-10 minutes). 
If you don't have access to a high-quality clam juice, just use the same amount of water instead, and follow the directions above. 
When the clams have opened, use tongs to place them in a bowl.  And when the clams have cooled enough to handle, remove the clam meat from its shell and chop finely. 
Strain the liquid in the pot along with any broth in the bowl through a fine strainer lined with a paper coffee filter, or just pour it off carefully, leaving the grit behind. 
Fry the bacon in a pan until crispy.  Pour the bacon fat into a pot and sauté the onion until translucent.  Meanwhile, dice the bacon.   
Measure the amount of broth and top off with water or clam juice to make a generous 2 cups.  Add this to the pot with the onion, as well as the diced bacon.  Add the potatoes, bring to a simmer, and cook until they are still firm but done.  Stir the milk and cream into the broth and add salt and pepper as necessary.  If your clams are fresh and briny and if you've used clam juice, you shouldn't need much, if any, salt. 
Bring the broth back to a gentle simmer and add the clam meat.  Do not let the chowder boil.  Cook the chowder at the barest simmer for another 2-3 minutes. 
The chowder will be at its best if you age it briefly, keeping it warm, but not hot, for an hour or so.  Afterwards, just bring the chowder bring it back to temperature, adjust the seasoning, and serve, preferably with common crackers (especially common crackers that have been split and toasted in the oven.) 
Serves 4-6 as an opening course. 
[recipe based closely on a recipe from John Thorne's Serious Pig] 
* You can also make a nice clam chowder with steamers, but we saved our steamers for, well..., steaming.
The other revelation of our Cape Cod excursion had to do not with fruits de mer, but with fruits du bord de la mer.

Michelle had read about Cape Cod's legendary beach plums years ago.  When we we got an invitation to vacation there, she tried to find out some more about them and discovered that we'd be there at the height of their season--mid- to late-August.  The thing is, how do you go about finding a fruit that's totally wild and that you can only procure from foragers?  Especially when the foragers in question are known to keep their sources secret--like mushroom hunters and their troves of prized chanterelles and morels.

We had no idea how we'd find beach plums, but we were determined to keep our eyes peeled for them.  And, in the end, it took us less than 24 hours to score both beach plums and another wild coastal fruit we had no idea even existed:  wild apricots.  But we found in them in a most unlikely spot:  at a flea market (!).

We'd been told that the weekend flea market at the Wellfleet Drive-In was a must--and it was!--but we had no idea that there'd be a grizzled old hippie selling foraged fruit along with his carved wood C.R.A.P.**  God bless him!  He had an amazing array of carved driftwood whales and other folk art treasures, and his beach plums and wild apricots were beautiful (much, much smaller than we would have imagined, but beautiful nonetheless).

IMG_0902










fig. m:  wild beach plums & apricots

When we got them back to our beach house,

P1030612









fig. n:  sorting



Michelle set about sorting through them.  And the next morning she made an exceedingly precious

P1030653 fig. o:  preserves

small batch of wild apricot and beach plum preserves.  Fresh, both fruit were a little too tart to be pleasant--but sweetened and cooked, they turned into the deepest, most delicious preserves.  The beach plums almost had a wine flavour to them, while the apricots were redolent of almond.

We brought back numerous souvenirs from our trip to Cape Cod,

P1030644 fig. p:  souvenirs

P1030646 fig. q:  ole no. 69

but there's no question the most highly prized were those two jars of beach house-made preserves.

Of course, there are other, more conventional ways of scoring traditional Cape Cod preserves, like beach plum.  And some of them are quite excellent, indeed.  Take the Chatham Jam and Jelly Shop,

P1030633 fig. r:  jams & jellies

in (you guessed it!) Chatham, where you can find dozens upon dozens of house-made jam & jellies, including a whole assortment of wild fruit preserves.

We kept the small batch we made at the beach house for ourselves, but we brought back extras to stock our pantry and give to our friends and family.

Ah, Cape Cod!  We miss you so.

aj

** The acronym stands for Cape Recycled Art Project, if memory serves me right.

p.s. TY to R & MA for making this happen--such a great time!

Saturday, August 24, 2013

Gone fishin'

CC 2

This is how we're hoping to get our fish-dinner on Cape Cod.

Stay tuned...

aj

Friday, August 16, 2013

Omnivores among us

omnivore Montreal fig. a:  aaah! they're back!!

They're back!  That wacky band of Parisian bon vivants has returned to our fair city to put on another food festival, Omnivore Montreal 2013, and, once again, they've not only tapped many of Montreal's best chefs, they've brought along a whole bunch of talented friends as well.

maudits soupers fig. b:  maudit barbu!

Participants in their tag-team-style Maudits Soupers include such vedettes culinaires as Jeremiah Langhorne of Charleston's legendary McCrady's (tonight! with Derek Dammann!! at Maison Publique!!!).

And, once again, the Société des arts technologiques' Foodlab is right at the centre of the action.  The SAT is where all of Omnivore's cooking demos will be taking place (in the tripped-out confines of the SATosphere, their multimedia dome).  The SAT is where Saturday night's Omnivorious bash will be held.  And the Foodlab will be the site of the festival's closing night Maudit Souper on Monday:  a collaboration between Michelle & Seth, and Nicolas Darnauguilhelm of Brussels' highly acclaimed Neptune.

bring on the bukty fig. c:  buchty, mmm...., buchty!

Both Michelle and Seth will be giving demos this weekend, with Michelle's covering the use of cheese in desserts (including her remarkable farmer's cheese- and fruit-filled buchty,* which you can see pictured above, fresh out of the oven).  You can catch Michelle's demo on Saturday, at 3:40 p.m.,** while Seth's will take place on Sunday at 12:20.  Demos run from 11:00 a.m.-1:30 p.m. and 3:00 p.m.-5:30 p.m. on both Saturday and Sunday.

Omnivores of Montreal, unite!

aj

* If you haven't had the pleasure, buchty are traditional Czech yeasted buns that are stuffed with fruit or cheese, and sometimes (as in this case) both.

** BTW, she's making enough buchty for everyone who attends!

Monday, August 12, 2013

Coffee time. Nice!

Nice Coffee Time fig. a:  hot off the presses!

Liz Clayton is a world-renowned coffee expert and a hardcore coffee lover.  She also writes, knits, loves cats, plays pinball, takes a lot of photographs, and travels extensively, sometimes in the company of a rock 'n' roll band or two.

She's just published her first book, and it documents (in photographs and words) an international coffee odyssey that took her as far east as Nordic Europe (Iceland, Denmark), and back and forth across the United States and Canada, from Boston to San Diego and Victoria to Atlanta.

coffee odyssey fig. b:  odyssey

And all in the space of a single year (!).

The photographs capture recommended coffee establishments in all of the far-flung cities, towns, and regions Clayton visited (Reykjavik!  Santa Cruz!  Oklahoma City!), as well as intimate portraits of fellow coffee enthusiasts in their abodes, either fixing up a cup of coffee, or fixing to enjoy one.  Together with the text, they provide some sense of the scale of the Third Wave Coffee International (at least the roasting, brewing, enjoying aspects of the industry), as well as some sense of the surprisingly mellow, well-adjusted, and good-natured people who inhabit this highly caffeinated scene.

SF coffee time fig. c:  415

You might be asking yourself if Ms. Clayton made more than a token effort to cover Canada as part of her survey, and the answer would be, "Yes!  Clayton is something of a Canadianophile and Canadian cities are covered in some detail."*  In fact, Clayton visited favourite cafés in Victoria, Vancouver, Toronto, and Montreal.

You might also be asking yourself what the test kitchen at "...an endless banquet" looks like, as well as what method Michelle uses on those rare occasions when she brews a cup of coffee in it.  (Seems highly unlikely that such questions would be crossing your mind, but you never know.)

Mtl coffee time fig. d:  514

Luckily for you, all you have to do is pick up a copy of Nice Coffee Time to find out, because Michelle is featured right above a photograph of Café Myriade (natch!), and right next to an account of Clayton's adventures in the Montreal-Boston corridor.

Is Michelle an example of "the surprisingly mellow, good-natured people who inhabit this highly caffeinated scene"?  Why, yes, she is.  As long as she gets her morning fix.

You can find Nice Coffee Time in select coffee shops and bookstores now, as well as on Amazon soon.  It brings new meaning to the phrase "coffee table book."

aj

* She also holds a Canadian passport, if I'm not mistaken.

Friday, August 02, 2013

Top Ten #50

summer escape


1.  summer escapes

allman brothers

2.  v/a, Delta Swamp Rock, vol. 1 (Soul Jazz)

sample track:  Cher, "I Walk on Guilded Splinters"

cherry pie


4.  Majical Cloudz, Impersonator (Matador)

sample track:  "Childhood's End"

runaway creek farm

5.  Runaway Creek Farm, Arundel, QC

jj

6.  Monterey Pop (1967), dir. D.A. Pennebaker + Big Brother & the Holding Company, Cheap Thrills (Columbia)

sample track:  "Summertime"

summer social poster (redacted)


john cale

8.  John Cale, Paris 1919 (4 Men With Beards)

sample track:  "The Endless Plain of Fortune"

9.  Girls, season 1

reading time w: audrey

10.  Miss Audrey (2001-2013), R.I.P.

Audrey was regularly featured on "...an endless banquet" right from the start, and with good reason:  she was a darling girl and a true superstar.  You can find two of our favourite Audrey-related posts here and here.

aj

note:  none of them ever are, really, but, as you may have guessed already, this special edition Top Ten list (#50!) is definitely not in any particular order--eds.

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Montreal Fruit Hunters' Local 24

With summer now in full effect, the Mile End/Outremont division of the Montreal Fruit Hunters' Association has been buzzing of late.

First, there was a wild mango tasting.  It came hot on the heels of a trip by one of our members to the 21st annual International Mango Festival in Coral Gables, FL--the same festival depicted with such affection in Yung Chang's film version of The Fruit Hunters.  Our intrepid colleague was gutsy enough to return with a suitcase full of rare breeds, and generous enough to share them with the rest of Local 24.  Now that's a true Best Fruit Friend.  (TY!)

fruit hunters 1 fig. a:  these mangoes are wild

They were all different sizes and colours and most of them were marked with strange names like Z-DW-10, Poiri, and Zebda.  They were varieties that had been collected around the world, then cultivated in Florida.

Ermenegildo Zebda fig. b:  Call me Ermenegildo.

More importantly, they were wonderfully ripe, and perfumed to an extent some of the Local's members had never experienced before.  The hot, muggy, July air seemed to agree with our specimens.  The effect was enough to derange the senses.

fruit hunters 2.3 fig. c:  the fruit sniffers

And then we started to portion them and eat them, and the experience was taken to the astral plane.  Who knew mangoes could smell and taste like a crisp Chablis, like billowing frankincense, like a sweet, fatty piece of expertly spiced smoked meat?  Apparently the range of flavours at the International Mango Festival ran even wider:  banana cream pie; crème brûlée; marshmallow dust; and so on.

Some of the mangoes we sampled were sweet, while others were "savoury"--we imagined making the most wonderful ceviche with one particularly acidic variety, but they were still so good, so enticing, that we just went ahead and ate them right there and then anyway.

Our hands-down favourite was the Poiri, a variety that had all the fruitiness, all the sweetness, and all the fragrance one looks for in a top-notch Indian mango--only everything was amplified.  It was like that mango had been turned up to 11.  It also reminded me of that old line from Spenser for Hire (or was it A Man Called Hawk?):  take the baddest mango you know; multiply it by two; add a few zeroes to that; and that doesn't even come close to how bad that Poiri was.

The moral of the story:  there's a strange and beautiful world of mangoes out there.  Seek them out when you're traveling in exotic tropical locales.  Visit a mango festival, if you get the opportunity.  And if you know someone who's planning on visiting a mango festival, beg them to bring a few back with them.  You, too, might reach the astral plane.

-----

From the transnational, to the hyperlocal...

A day or two later, we were back at it.  Local 24 had had such a great time devouring those mangoes, that we decided to reconvene to do a little urban foraging and clean an Outremont sour cherry tree of its highly prized fruit.

We considered renting an actual cherrypicker to do the job, but in the end all it took was a couple of tall ladders, some buckets, a little determination, and some nerves of steel.

fruit hunters 3 fig. d:  cherrypickin'

A couple of hours later we'd amassed a couple hundred dollars' worth of beautifully ripe fruit.  So ripe, in fact, that you could almost eat them straight.  Almost.

The very most perfect ones, we made sure to leave the stems on, we pricked each one ever so carefully three times with a sewing needle (as per Michelle's instructions), we placed them in jars, and we immersed them in a lethal combination of granulated sugar and Buffalo Trace Bourbon, then set them aside (for 30 days), in order to make Bourbon sour cherries.  Mm-hmm.

The next most perfect ones we stemmed, pitted, and doused them with a little lemon juice, then placed them in a large Tupperware container so that Michelle would be able to make a sour cherry pie.

And the rest we stemmed, pitted, and mixed with a little bit of lemon juice and a lot of sugar, so that we could make sour cherry compote out of them and can them.  We ended up with about twenty 250-ml jars of the sour cherry compote alone.

But the pièce de résistance was Michelle's pie.

cherry pie fig. e:  cherry pie

Michelle's got her own ways when it comes to sour cherry pie, but there are plenty of reliable recipes out there in the blogosphere, in newspapers and magazines (and their websites), and beyond.  Alice Waters' instructions from Chez Panisse Fruit are particularly trustworthy, and that recipe is among the original inspirations for Michelle's own pie.  Waters' introduction is sage, too.  It highlights the urgency of the matter, as well as the proper method:

The season for tender, translucent, tiny, red sour cherries is only a few weeks long, so we buy as many as we can and make cherry pie as often as we can.  We like to top them with lattice crusts so that plenty of steam can escape, allowing the filling to get nice and syrupy.

Respect is due.
Sour Cherry Pie
2 1/2 pounds sour cherries, stemmed and pitted (about 5 cups)
1 cup sugar
3 tbsp quick-cooking tapioca
1 tsp kirsch
two 9-oz pieces pie dough
2 tbsp heavy cream
1 tbsp unsalted butter 
Preheat the oven to 400º F. 
Toss the cherries with the sugar, tapioca, and kirsch.  Let the fruit mixture macerate for 30 minutes--this will plump the tapioca and dissolve the sugar.  Roll out the first piece of dough into a circle 1/8" thick.  Line a 9" pie plate, leaving a 1/4"-wide overhang around the edges.  Roll out the second piece of dough into a 13" circle; slide this onto a baking sheet and refrigerate.  Pour the cherry mixture into the pie shell. 
To make a lattice top, remove the second piece of dough from the refrigerator and cut into 1/2"-wide strips.  Arrange half the strips on top of the pie, and 1/2" apart.  Lay the remaining strips crisscross over the others (or, more prettily but more fussily, weave the strips [like Michelle did]).  Trim all the strips of dough so that their overhang is no more than 1/4", and neatly fold the edge of the bottom crust over the strips.  Pinch a wavy scalloped edge around the rim of the crust by making indentations with your thumb and fingers. 
Brush the top with cream and sprinkle lightly with sugar.  Dot the fruit exposed by the lattice with little pieces of cold butter (this step keeps the fruit from burning).  Bake immediately (to prevent the crust from getting soggy) for about 45 minutes, placing the pie plate on a baking sheet so that the pie doesn't spill all over your oven, until the top crust is golden brown and thick juices are bubbling from the holes.  Let the pie cool awhile on a rack before serving (it can be reheated in a warm oven for 10 minutes, if need be), and don't forget vanilla ice cream as an accompaniment and/or sweetened whipped cream. 
Makes one 9" pie.
[based very, very closely on Alice Waters' recipe in Chez Panisse Fruit (2002)]
But whatever recipe you choose to use, choose it quickly.  As Waters points out, sour cherry season is notoriously short.  If you're looking for the kinds of quantities you need to make pies here in Montreal, look for the buckets of fresh Montmorency cherries that come from Ontario.  They're highly prized by local chefs, so you might have to place an order for one, but it's well worth your while.  (Chez Nino at Marché Jean-Talon is an excellent source.)

Better yet, scout out a neighbourhood sour cherry tree and pick it clean.  Just make sure to get the permission of the owner if it's on private property (like we did).  Nine time out of ten you'll find that the owners will oblige you.

Trust me, fruit trees are out there, just begging to be picked.  Most city folk don't seem to notice them, though--or, if they do, they seem to be under the bizarre impression that the fruit that grows on city trees is necessarily inedible.  We got asked several times by passersby what it was that we were picking.  "C'est des griottes," we told them. "Sour cherries."

One of these passersby was a woman who was taking a break from her job at a bakery.  "Sour cherries?  We make pastries with those inside."

Exactly.

Already, sour cherry pie is in the very highest ranks of down-home desserts.  Sour cherry pie made with sour cherries that you picked yourself can be a downright epiphany.

aj

Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Montreal Cinema & Smokehouse

BBQ Center mascot 2 fig. a:  hog wild

Yes, ma'am!  Yes, siree!

Tonight (July 17th) there'll be another chapter in an ongoing series of film, dj, and food events at Place de la Paix, right next door to the Société des arts technologiques (SAT) [1201 boulevard St-Laurent].

Our hosts tonight are Film Pop, Pop Montreal, and the SAT.

The 9:00 p.m. screening will be Andrew Bujalski's 2013 film Computer Chess (with a video intro by none other than Wiley Wiggins [of Dazed & Confused fame).

And I'll be serving up smoky chopped pork sandwiches and BBQ tofu sandwiches (?!) from 7:00 - 9:00 (or until supplies last).

Sandwiches:  $5.

Screening:  FREE.

In case of rain:  this event will be moved inside the safety and comfort of the SAT.  In other words, this thing's a go, rain or shine.

Hope to see you there!

In smoke & film we trust.

aj

Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Return to Smokey Mt.

summer social poster.001 fig. a:  the invite

It was that time of year again.  Time to head down the 87 to the Catskills.  Time to fire up the smoker. Time to feed a whole mess of nice people from the City, from the Catskills, and beyond, on a gloriously beautiful midsummer's eve with some true Southern hospitality.

summer social program fig. b:  the bill

Thing is, up until the last minute, for the first time in five years, we weren't sure if we were going to be able to make it--which is why we didn't make the bill.

But by Friday afternoon, by the grace of God (and with a little help from an extra-special friend--TY!) we'd arrived at the Stone House, checked in, and gone for a dip in a nearby swimming hole.  And by evening that Smokey Mountain smoker was all fired up, sending sweet hickory smoke wafting in the air, and slowly, magically turning almost 40 pounds of Fleisher's pork shoulders into hog heaven.

smokey mt. fig. c:  getting up to temp

By noon the next day those shoulders had been pulled, chopped, and dressed into a towering heap of luscious North Carolina-style smoky chopped pork, and we were busily putting together our sides.

By 3:00 p.m. the guests had started to arrive in full force.  And by 6:00 p.m. dinner was served.

The spread:

3x 12-lb Fleisher's pork shoulders, hickory smoked and chopped 
Martin's potato rolls 
Tidewater coleslaw 
AJ's Down East baked beans 
Smokehouse potato salad 
AJ's Holy Grub BBQ sauce 
AEB Totally Jacked-Up BBQ sauce 
Blackcurrant lemonade 
Michelle's rhubarb & white chocolate petit fours
By about 7:15 the pork had been entirely cleaned out.  People made themselves four or five heaping sandwiches.  It was like a well-mannered, totally relaxed feeding frenzy.

By 9:00 p.m., as Color War took the outdoor stage, hickory smoke wasn't the only smoke in the air.

smoked out fig. d:  up in smoke

And by 10:00, after Color War's set had ended in ecstatic dancing and thunderous applause, there was a whole mess of other smoke shooting into a clear, star- and firefly-filled Catskills night.

after fig. e:  c'mon, baby, light my pyre

I'm not sure if it was all that smoke, or what, but I started to have all kinds of strange and interesting visions.  Like this guy.

double fantasy fig. f:  double fantasy

Saw him in a vision not long after the Theme from Twin Peaks played announcing the arrival of Color War onstage.  Had the even stranger experience of seeing him mounted to the wall of a log cabin the very next day.

Didn't get an invite?  Like to try some of my "luscious North Carolina-style smoky chopped pork"?  Well, if the Good Lord's willing and the creek don't rise, you'll get your chance tomorrow.  I'll be selling chopped pork sandwiches at Place de la Paix, right next to the Société des Arts Technologiques and the Foodlab, tomorrow, July 17, from 7:00 p.m. till 9:00 p.m.  What's the occasion?  It's a Pop Montreal/Film Pop presentation of Computer Chess on the outdoor screen.  It's also part of a Film, DJ's, and Chefs series that's going on all summer again this year.

Hope to see you there!

In smoke we trust.

aj

p.s. Many thanks to Patricia for making all of this possible, and to Flannery for invaluable assistance in the kitchen.

Monday, July 15, 2013

Tastes of Summer 1: AEB Superdawg Redux

We'll take AEB Superdawgs pretty much any way we can get 'em.  But, let's face it, they're particularly good on a real hot dog bun, and if you happen to be passing through the Mid-Atlantic region sometime soon, you might want to keep your eyes open Martin's hot dog-style potato rolls.  They're easy to spot--they come in those distinctive neo-Fraktur Pennsylvania Dutch-style bags.

martins' rolls fig. a:  De Stijl

We swear by their classic potato rolls for hamburgers and chopped pork sandwiches, but their hot dog rolls are pretty choice, too.  I mean, just look at those dawgs!

all-dressed hot dogs fig. b:  double dawgged

Pictured:

Hebrew National kosher all-beef franks
finely chopped yellow onion (buried)
chopped cherry tomatoes
finely chopped half-sour pickles
pickled corn
Keen's hot mustard
Hellmann's mayonnaise
celery salt
Total prep time:  about 10-15 minutes.

Summer is officially officially here (just feel that heat and humidity).  Make the most of it.  Keep things simple, but, for the love of Dawg, keep 'em tasty.

aj