5/5

The New Laloux received its first review in the local press earlier today.

fig. a: Chaises Musicales 2, the sequel

The review appeared in Voir and, as you may have already surmised, it was the second part in a series on a "musical chairs" trend in Montreal's current fine dining scene.

Anyway, I think it's safe to say that Gildas Meneu's review is a glowing one. Just how glowing? Well...

fig. b: count 'em

(That's five out of five, or "grande table.")

Now, Éric Gonzalez is probably used to this kind of praise--he's been a critical darling everywhere he's touched ground in Montreal, and he even has a Michelin star under his belt. Michelle, however, is new at this game. This is the very first time she's been reviewed as head pastry chef, and Meneu's review was enthusiastic about her desserts:

DOUCEURS

Ici, Éric cède la place à Michelle Marek (en charge également du menu du Pop!, juste à côté), talentueuse pâtissière qui traite les desserts comme des plats à part entière. Si le fameux pot de crème de Patrice Demers figure toujours à la carte, tournez-vous plutôt vers ce gâteau aux amandes et aux cerises couvert de crème de camomille, d'un granité d'amandes et d'un sorbet à la cerise. Une petite merveille. Ou encore vers les doux contrastes du gâteau moelleux à l'orange et épices et son crémeux de chocolat aux noisettes grillées. Pas sûr que vous vous en remettrez.

For those of you out there in cyberland who might be francophonically challenged, we thought it might be funny if we enlisted the aid of Babel Fish in translating. The results looked like this:

SOFTNESSES

Here, Eric also yields the place to Michelle Marek (in load of the menu of the Pop one!, just at side), talented pâtissière who treats the desserts like dishes with whole share. If the famous pot of cream of Patrice Demers always appears in the chart, turn you rather towards this cake to almonds and cherries covered of cream of camomile, d'a granite d'almonds and d'a sorbet with cherry. A little marvel. Or towards soft contrasts of the marrowy cake with l' orange and spices and its crémeux of hazelnut chocolate roasted. Not sure that you will go back from there.

Mmm, marrowy cake!

The translation was so awful (predictably so), that it reminded us of a favorite cartoon of ours:

fig. c: Spy, December, 1987

If you're confused, a somewhat less automated translation might read as follows:

SWEETS

Here, Éric yields to Michelle Marek (who's also in charge of the menu of Pop! next door [Michelle's only in charge of the cocktails and the desserts at Pop!, not the entire menu--ed], the talented pastry chef who treats her desserts like dishes in their own right. Even though Patrice Demers's famous pot de crème still figures on the menu, direct yourself towards the cherry and almond cake with chamomile cream, almond granita, and cherry sorbet instead. It's a small marvel. Or towards the delicate contrasts of the orange & spice sponge cake and its chocolate crémeux with toasted hazelnuts. I'm not sure that you'll ever look back.

aj

Top Ten #17

1. Peter Hvidt tables

2. Zodiac, dir. Fincher + "Hurdy Gurdy Man," Donovan

3. E & D mac & cheese

4. Danish fondue sets

5. La Mer

6. The Wire, season 2

7. Abu Elias, Ville St-Laurent



8. Maria Schneider

9. Paul Patates & Bertrand spruce beer

10. A High Wind in Jamaica @ Pop!

Pop Shoppe

Cocktail enthusiasts, report!

Michelle's been at it again. She's been mixing up her duties as a pastry assistant with a little mixology, designing the cocktails at Pop!, the gorgeously appointed wine bar that adjoins Laloux on Pine Avenue E. There, amidst the Danish Modern opulence, you'll find old classics like her Murray Bay, alongside newly created concoctions like her l'Avenue des Pins, a G & T riff which features Bertrand brand bière d'épinettes and is surely destined to become the Great Québécois Cocktail, and my personal favorite, her ode to the pleasures of Jamaican rum and homemade ginger beer, A High Wind in Jamaica, which you see pictured here (the one with the lime and mint, not the flaming one):



You have to be strategic, though. Pop! is only open Thursdays through Saturdays.

Pop!, 250 Avenue des Pins E., 287-9127